Greetings from Sydney!!
Since I last wrote, I spent two more lovely days in Auckland getting lost and exploring. The first real day I there, I walked through the Victoria Street market (had to) and down the lovely and quaint Ponsonby Street, which was lined with bustling outdoor cafes, local artisan clothing shops, and other stores of handmade crafts. There was quite a hill to get to the top of the street, so the views it provided of downtown Auckland were unbeatable. On my walk past Victoria Park, I glance over to see - A RUGBY GAME!!!!!!!!! With only one day left in New Zealand, I was beginning to think my hopes of seeing a game were going to be unfulfilled....BUT NO!!! Soooo exciting to watch two local teams (both mostly comprised of Maori individuals - so cool) battle it out with all their friends and families looking on. Never realized how loud two bodies crushing into each other could be.....now I do. In my past travels, I have many times come across weddings or newlyweds (still in wedding attire) wherever I happened to be walking at the time...well, I am happy to report that this tradition is continuing in the Southern Hemisphere. The newlyweds, along with the bride's two children and the couple's two good friends were all standing in front of the "Ride-a-Bungy" set-up that was nearby the hostel. Basically, the couple had just been strapped into this core metal ball contraption where the bungy cords that emerged from either side were then stretched to their maximum point, and upon release, they were flung into the air at high speeds and able to experience the free fall feeling over and over and over again. I think that idea, instead of spending money on a reception, was a fantastic alternative.
For my last day in Auckland, I decided to go explore "the island that has volcano on it." Well, just for a little background, there are only 2 (that's right, 2) islands that you can take a ferry to from Auckland's port - Rangitoto and Waiheke Islands. So I hopped on the ferry and off I went the beautiful waters to get a lovely ride, great views, and quite a lot of wind in the face :) Upon arrival, I was soooo excited to explore this volcano and do a little hiking around the peak that I decided to stop in the information center only for a moment, so they could point me in the right direction to the base. "Ahh the volcano. Right love, you are on the wrong island - you want Rangitoto, and you are now on Waiheke." Of course I am. Nothing you can do except roll with the punches, so got a map of the local walking paths and went on a 4-hour expedition around the western part of the island, which offered some beautiful views from my future home ;)
Just a little note to say thank you to my resident New Zealand "uncle/grandpa," Bob, who accompanied me to the airport in Christchurch before I flew out to Auckland. A big thank you to Bob for being such an amazingly hospitable and kind man!!! THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING BOB!!
After a bit of a delay and some serious people watching, I hopped on my flight to home of the Wallabies. Just a note and "thanks for telling it like it is" pat to the Immigration officer in the Auckland airport who, upon being asked "how are you today," responded "well, a little bit sore in my left lower back here, probably from fencing out back because that is what we do when we rotate during our shifts...and then I do a little bit of exercising before I head home to grab a bite, get some rest, and come back here to save the country....Yea, I have a golf time this weekend, I hope this back of mine feels better before then....I reckon I just need to rest it a bit..." Meanwhile, the cue behind me has now tripled in length and people are starting to get that look in their eyes. But cheers to him for actually answering the question AND for thinking his position and work is saving his country. :)
Yesterday, I took a HUGE walk throughout the majority of the city centre that included the Botanical Gardens, The Rocks, Sydney Harbor, the Observatory, Miller's and Mrs. Macquaries Points, Macquarie Street (which is home to all the state buildings...the State Library, the Mint, Parliament, etc), some of Darling Harbour, and all of Pitt and George Streets. Also, I was able to take a tour of the Sydney Opera House, whose architecture I have grown to appreciate even more so after learning about its construction and composition of materials. We were able to view the largest theatre room in the building, which was a MAGNIFICENT room full of the warm and rich colors of the Australian timber that lined the floors, ceiling, and walls, the birch that was molded around us to form our seats, and the vibrant 1970's red/orange color of the seats!!! SO COOL. When you look out onto the stage, you can see 135 polished organ pipes...what you cannot see is the 10,000+ other pipes that go back 7 meters behind the superficial layer, which help to produce a most MASSIVE sound! The architect (Jorn Utzon) has never come back to Sydney since he left midway through its construction after an argument regarding funding, but his son sure was there...and walked right in front of us twice on the tour. Pretty neat! The Opera House is one of only three 21rst century buildings to get awarded "World Heritage" by the UN, and its the only one whose architect is still alive. All in all a quite productive day!!! AND when I returned to the hostel, I was able to reconnect with Rachael (friend from Queenstown)!! We took in a night walk to Hyde Park and go to see the TOTAL LUNAR ECLIPSE!!!!! SOOOOOOOOOOO COOOL - RED MOON - A-MAZING!!!!
Today, errands were ran, flights and accommodation were booked, and groceries were purchased :) So with the necessary things out of the way, we simply walked down towards the Harbour. While she caught up with her friend, I attended a free lunchtime concert at St. James Church (the oldest in Sydney). The church itself was LOVELY - very welcoming and a simple decor (always a plus for me). The concert was put on by a group of three artists - an organist, cellist, and recorder-ist??? Yep, you know the instrument you were forced to play in grade school.... this woman played it and played the heck out of it. Didn't know
that is what a recorded is supposed to sound like!! The music was mainly themed to sound like something that would be played in high courts of early 1600 England (the same style as heard in A Knight's Tale). However, the most striking pieces of the whole concert were a slow, intensely sad French piece and a solo cello piece that called for all tricks to be played - slapping, plucking, karate-chopping - you name it, she did it!! Quite a treat to watch. After the concert and few more hours wandering about, I met back up with Rachael and we stepped our way up to Pylon Lookout on the SE side of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. We had the most spectacular views of the city, the Opera House, and the western side of the city - all at SUNSET!!! Que bellisima!! After enjoying the moment, we headed back to the hostel - I had to say goodbye to Rachael and come say hi to all you guys!
Quirky things I love about Sydney:
1. Their Thai restaurants have really innovative (and incredibly amusing) titles: Thainatown, Thai Me Up, and EnTHAIsing!! Hysterical.
2. They have a bus stop advertisement for using your Visa that says: "Put your fush and chups on it." (making fun of the New Zealand accent) Man, for this one, you might have to be here...but, say this out loud and pretend you are a big burly, beer-drinking, rugby-watching Kiwi or Australian construction worker or something...it's much funnier)
That's it for now. Tomorrow I hop a plane to Darwin in the Northern Territory to explore the national park and the Aboriginal culture!! I am looking forward to leg of the trip a lot, so I am pumped!!!! Much love to everyone! Take care.
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Friday, August 24, 2007
In the Big City
This is going to be a very short entry, primarily just to put in writing my witnessing of the world connectivity that is around us all. I am now in Auckland, a city whose population alone outnumbers ALL inhabitants and residents of the ENTIRE South Island - so imagine the grin I had on my face when a 40-something man hopped on the public bus I was taking to centre city, sat across from me, and pulled out some reading material - Mutant Message from Forever by Marlo Morgan!!!!!!!! ARE YOU KIDDING ME????? The follow-up book for the book I am currently OBSESSED with!!!!! Thank you world connectivity! What a start to a day!!!!!
Sunday, August 19, 2007
A Country of Extreme Things
So I guess at some point I got on the ball, because I have traveled and seen much of this AMAZING South Island!! Since the last update, I have hooked up with a travel company called The Kiwi Experience which has provided the transportation to all the places I've wished to go on this journey. It is a fantastic idea because they provide the transportation and assist in booking accommodations & activities, but you decide on how long you want to spend in each location/town and where you want to go! There has been some slight disregard to the whole "budget travel" thing in the past week, as I have participated in 3 activities offered by the beautiful host towns of Franz Josef and Queenstown.
Thirty minutes after arriving in Franz Josef, I hopped on a helicopter with 4 others and took a scenic ride up to the top of the Franz Josef Glacier - one of the largest of New Zealand's 3000+ glaciers. Once we came to a skid-ice landing, we strapped on some crampons (yea, I know) and started hiking up the glacier (sounds more sophisticated if you pronounce it like the English folk that were on the trek... glass-i-ah). It was an UNREAL experience...haven't really ever done something like that in my life, so the opportunity to do so was much appreciated. We climbed up & down ice chunks, through tunnels, between skinny crevices that made me rethink the chocolate bar I had earlier that day, and underneath overhanging ice pieces that resembled small buildings rather than ice. Of course, my smooth self did wipe out a few times, including falling out head first of a ice tunnel we were crawling through, but it was great fun!!! And it was even more enjoyable because no one in our group was injured at the end of the day. On the helicopter ride back, we had two surprises - one was that our ride back was almost perfectly timed with the sunset, so the ride was out of this world!! Secondly, our pilot, who was referred to by our glacier guides as "the mad one" and "oh no, not him again," provided us with quite a few dips, spins, and cutaways near the mountainside, leaving us all slightly green but incredibly giddy and thankful.
Second was a quad bike (4-wheeler) ride through the basin, river, and nearby rainforest at the base of the glacier. For 1 1/2 hours, we splashed through mud puddles, hopped over jumps, and raced each other through the beautiful backdrop of the Franz Josef Glacier. It took a little while to get the hang of using the thumb only throttle - after I went over bumps, my hard landing seemed to cause my whole body to jolt forward, in turn forcing me to inadvertently push the accelerator even more...and you can only imagine how that next jump went. However, riding through the rainforest was SOOOOO much fun!! And the mud puddles of course...a buddy that's been traveling the same route as me through the South Island went quad biking as well, thus giving me a target to aim for as a splashed through the 2-foot deep puddles! Great fun that left me wishing we had one more hour, as I was finally starting to get the feel for the bike towards the end! Hoping to do it again in the future, but dragging a few of yous along with me.
Two days ago, my biking buddy, two other backpackers we met from Ireland, a gal from California, and myself all took a cruise of the Milford Sound fjord - and was it GORGEOUS!!!! The scenery itself was gorgeous, but I met a couple on the cruise that was from Charlottesville, Virginia (of ALL PLACES!!!) that were just delightful and lovely people. We had a fabulous conversation that covered many different topics, but it was just lovely to see how in love they were after 30+ years of marriage and how much they were loving the moment they were in!!! It reminded me of the scene in "What About Bob" where he is eating dinner with the family and cannot stop commenting on how wonderful the food is - that was them....every 3 seconds was "isn't this just beautiful," "look at how gorgeous that is," and "isn't this amazing." HOW REFRESHING!!!! I think sometimes it's easy to get caught up on the superfluous aspects of travel and trips (cost, accommodation, means of transport, etc) that we forget to just sit back, take it in, and ENJOY!! At some point, we just had to put the cameras away and hang ourselves over the top deck to get the fresh air and best views!! So to the couple on the boat- THANK YOU!!!
Yesterday was a fantastic day, as two fellow backpackers and I headed on a 1.5 hour hike up a lovely mountain that eventually took us to the top of the Queenstown Gondola, which overlooks all of Queenstown and the Lake Wakatipu basin. HOW BEAUTIFUL - the weather, the sights, the hike itself, the company, and the feeling of hiking back at sea level. At the top of the Gondola, you can do a little street luge down the top third of the mountain...c'mon, how can you resist - it was nearly impossible for me to not smile on the way down! What fun!! It was definitely a memorable day, and one of the best I've had since being in New Zealand.
Today, since the weather was BEAUTIFUL, I decided what better way to enjoy the weather by flying in it!! Therefore, at around noon, I ran off the side of a mountain, sat back, and enjoyed looking out onto the diverse lands of this Southern Island. Paragliding is a FANTASTIC way to fully enjoy seeing the area around you. My instructor and I took of from topmost point of the best ski/snowboard mountain around (Coronet's Peak), ran off the side, sat back, and enjoyed the 25-minute descent. Of course, we did have a little fun doing huge switchback swings and spirals (which are cause you to circle at ridiculous speeds, ps) on the way down. Though I have not viewed them yet, I did get a few pictures of the ride, which I hope to post in the near future - please don't let the running nose and frozen face have any effect on your judgment of my enjoyment of the ride...it was A-MAZING, just extremely cold.
The girls I went hiking with the other day and I will reunite one last time for dinner before we all head our separate ways. Good fun to be had! Lots of love to them, to you all, and to everyone!!!
Thirty minutes after arriving in Franz Josef, I hopped on a helicopter with 4 others and took a scenic ride up to the top of the Franz Josef Glacier - one of the largest of New Zealand's 3000+ glaciers. Once we came to a skid-ice landing, we strapped on some crampons (yea, I know) and started hiking up the glacier (sounds more sophisticated if you pronounce it like the English folk that were on the trek... glass-i-ah). It was an UNREAL experience...haven't really ever done something like that in my life, so the opportunity to do so was much appreciated. We climbed up & down ice chunks, through tunnels, between skinny crevices that made me rethink the chocolate bar I had earlier that day, and underneath overhanging ice pieces that resembled small buildings rather than ice. Of course, my smooth self did wipe out a few times, including falling out head first of a ice tunnel we were crawling through, but it was great fun!!! And it was even more enjoyable because no one in our group was injured at the end of the day. On the helicopter ride back, we had two surprises - one was that our ride back was almost perfectly timed with the sunset, so the ride was out of this world!! Secondly, our pilot, who was referred to by our glacier guides as "the mad one" and "oh no, not him again," provided us with quite a few dips, spins, and cutaways near the mountainside, leaving us all slightly green but incredibly giddy and thankful.
Second was a quad bike (4-wheeler) ride through the basin, river, and nearby rainforest at the base of the glacier. For 1 1/2 hours, we splashed through mud puddles, hopped over jumps, and raced each other through the beautiful backdrop of the Franz Josef Glacier. It took a little while to get the hang of using the thumb only throttle - after I went over bumps, my hard landing seemed to cause my whole body to jolt forward, in turn forcing me to inadvertently push the accelerator even more...and you can only imagine how that next jump went. However, riding through the rainforest was SOOOOO much fun!! And the mud puddles of course...a buddy that's been traveling the same route as me through the South Island went quad biking as well, thus giving me a target to aim for as a splashed through the 2-foot deep puddles! Great fun that left me wishing we had one more hour, as I was finally starting to get the feel for the bike towards the end! Hoping to do it again in the future, but dragging a few of yous along with me.
Two days ago, my biking buddy, two other backpackers we met from Ireland, a gal from California, and myself all took a cruise of the Milford Sound fjord - and was it GORGEOUS!!!! The scenery itself was gorgeous, but I met a couple on the cruise that was from Charlottesville, Virginia (of ALL PLACES!!!) that were just delightful and lovely people. We had a fabulous conversation that covered many different topics, but it was just lovely to see how in love they were after 30+ years of marriage and how much they were loving the moment they were in!!! It reminded me of the scene in "What About Bob" where he is eating dinner with the family and cannot stop commenting on how wonderful the food is - that was them....every 3 seconds was "isn't this just beautiful," "look at how gorgeous that is," and "isn't this amazing." HOW REFRESHING!!!! I think sometimes it's easy to get caught up on the superfluous aspects of travel and trips (cost, accommodation, means of transport, etc) that we forget to just sit back, take it in, and ENJOY!! At some point, we just had to put the cameras away and hang ourselves over the top deck to get the fresh air and best views!! So to the couple on the boat- THANK YOU!!!
Yesterday was a fantastic day, as two fellow backpackers and I headed on a 1.5 hour hike up a lovely mountain that eventually took us to the top of the Queenstown Gondola, which overlooks all of Queenstown and the Lake Wakatipu basin. HOW BEAUTIFUL - the weather, the sights, the hike itself, the company, and the feeling of hiking back at sea level. At the top of the Gondola, you can do a little street luge down the top third of the mountain...c'mon, how can you resist - it was nearly impossible for me to not smile on the way down! What fun!! It was definitely a memorable day, and one of the best I've had since being in New Zealand.
Today, since the weather was BEAUTIFUL, I decided what better way to enjoy the weather by flying in it!! Therefore, at around noon, I ran off the side of a mountain, sat back, and enjoyed looking out onto the diverse lands of this Southern Island. Paragliding is a FANTASTIC way to fully enjoy seeing the area around you. My instructor and I took of from topmost point of the best ski/snowboard mountain around (Coronet's Peak), ran off the side, sat back, and enjoyed the 25-minute descent. Of course, we did have a little fun doing huge switchback swings and spirals (which are cause you to circle at ridiculous speeds, ps) on the way down. Though I have not viewed them yet, I did get a few pictures of the ride, which I hope to post in the near future - please don't let the running nose and frozen face have any effect on your judgment of my enjoyment of the ride...it was A-MAZING, just extremely cold.
The girls I went hiking with the other day and I will reunite one last time for dinner before we all head our separate ways. Good fun to be had! Lots of love to them, to you all, and to everyone!!!
Sunday, August 12, 2007
New Zealand At Its Finest
Realized yesterday that I probably should start researching what I want to do in NZ, as there is a very limited amount of time to fit everything in - so, I spent 3 hours in the information centre and emerged triumphant with 55kg of brochures under one arm and a Magic pass under the other. Now, though the pass may sound mysterious and cooler than any other pass out there, this is not necessarily the case. However, for the amount of money I have to spend, the pass is in fact MAGICAL! I am now the proud holder of a number and passcode that will allow me to travel freely to Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers, Queenstown, Dunedin, and back to Christchurch - quite a fun little circuit that will allow me to see and do everything I hoped (or at least found out about yesterday) to do.
Today I took the Trans-Alpine train from Christchurch to a small little West Coasty town called Greymouth - a cute little place with an old western-style downtown, fully equipped with some horse posts (posts where people used to tie up their horses - sorry, I do not know the technical name for them, so I take the Maori approach to naming things and call it like it is) in front of the local pub. Apparently, this train trip is on the "to-do" list for all visitors of Kiwi country - many people on the train were making the trip, only to take the same train back to Christchurch after it reached Greymouth. Now, I understand why - it was GORGEOUS! Snow-capped mountains, green farmland, lake country, forest country, SHEEPIES EVERYWHERE - within 3 km I saw more sheep than there were residents of the town where we were heading!!! Never really seen sheep run...so that was pretty amusing for me - I am not sure this is normal, as I have already admitted my lack of sheep knowledge, but are they supposed to kick up their back legs like rabbits when they advance forward? Regardless, it was amusing. Anyways, the absolutely beautiful scenery came at us from all directions throughout the entire trip... except when I happened to run out onto the one "smoking/picture-taking platform" to try to capture the moment. Somehow, my sheer presence caused the beautiful landscape to shy away, leaving me with landfills and marshes. Seriously, I would run out and in the 3 seconds it took for my camera to open, the 2000mt snow-capped mountain would disappear behind heaps of compost piles and forestry.... OR, I would run out and as my camera was waking up, I would hear "Ladies and gents, we are now entering the Kuwai tunnel, the longest tunnel of our journey at about 7.3km in length, or approximately 5 miles" from our very informative conductor. Nonetheless, while I was indoors and seated, I felt as though I was literally taking a ride through (and this is only for the LOTR dorks like myself and fam) Middle Earth. Basically, if you have ever wanted to know what New Zealand looks like, have a movie marathon and re-watch the LOTR series (and I am not just saying that because I have no pictures of the landscape).
So after a brilliant train ride and hours of aimless wandering around a not-so-big town, my plans include heading to Franz Josef Glacier tomorrow to do some hiking and glacier climbing :) Love you mom and dad - I'll be safe. Then, hopefully, on towards Fox Glacier to do an 8-hour circuit hike that will, with the grace of good weather, produces amazing panoramic views of the glaciers and surrounding area :) Big excitement!! Cheers and much love.
Today I took the Trans-Alpine train from Christchurch to a small little West Coasty town called Greymouth - a cute little place with an old western-style downtown, fully equipped with some horse posts (posts where people used to tie up their horses - sorry, I do not know the technical name for them, so I take the Maori approach to naming things and call it like it is) in front of the local pub. Apparently, this train trip is on the "to-do" list for all visitors of Kiwi country - many people on the train were making the trip, only to take the same train back to Christchurch after it reached Greymouth. Now, I understand why - it was GORGEOUS! Snow-capped mountains, green farmland, lake country, forest country, SHEEPIES EVERYWHERE - within 3 km I saw more sheep than there were residents of the town where we were heading!!! Never really seen sheep run...so that was pretty amusing for me - I am not sure this is normal, as I have already admitted my lack of sheep knowledge, but are they supposed to kick up their back legs like rabbits when they advance forward? Regardless, it was amusing. Anyways, the absolutely beautiful scenery came at us from all directions throughout the entire trip... except when I happened to run out onto the one "smoking/picture-taking platform" to try to capture the moment. Somehow, my sheer presence caused the beautiful landscape to shy away, leaving me with landfills and marshes. Seriously, I would run out and in the 3 seconds it took for my camera to open, the 2000mt snow-capped mountain would disappear behind heaps of compost piles and forestry.... OR, I would run out and as my camera was waking up, I would hear "Ladies and gents, we are now entering the Kuwai tunnel, the longest tunnel of our journey at about 7.3km in length, or approximately 5 miles" from our very informative conductor. Nonetheless, while I was indoors and seated, I felt as though I was literally taking a ride through (and this is only for the LOTR dorks like myself and fam) Middle Earth. Basically, if you have ever wanted to know what New Zealand looks like, have a movie marathon and re-watch the LOTR series (and I am not just saying that because I have no pictures of the landscape).
So after a brilliant train ride and hours of aimless wandering around a not-so-big town, my plans include heading to Franz Josef Glacier tomorrow to do some hiking and glacier climbing :) Love you mom and dad - I'll be safe. Then, hopefully, on towards Fox Glacier to do an 8-hour circuit hike that will, with the grace of good weather, produces amazing panoramic views of the glaciers and surrounding area :) Big excitement!! Cheers and much love.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
Tēnā Koutou
Tēnā koutou to all! Greetings from the land of the Maori people, the lovely New Zealand. The trip getting here was quite an experience...as I most definitely lost the day of August 9th forever and stayed up for 72 hours straight, with the exception of a little 1 hour-snooze on one of the four plane rides. My long layover in Los Angeles allowed me to go explore the beautiful Santa Monica area, walk along the beach, and look out over that side of the Pacific. I met an angel of a woman on the bus and had a short but very memorable interaction. And, there was a MARKET of fresh fruit, vegetables, locally-grown cheeses, and various other Californian products along the 3rd Street Promenade, so I was set! Also, it was the first time I could buy fruit and EAT it since I left the states = A-Mazing! The peaches, plums, and nectarines were all ripe and tasted better than I remember :)
On the flight from Auckland to Christchurch, I sat next to a man named Axel who enlightened me about his businesses and introduced me to a line of health products I'd never heard of before. He reassured me that many in my "field" (good 'ole nursing) hadn't heard of it either because, he reasoned, "you are in a sickness profession and I am in a health profession." That line holds great significance with me because it opened up a whole different perspective about nursing, about health, and about life. It has helped push me to think about ways in which I can use my degree to teach health promotion to various people in a way that would make them motivated to change their health habits, their ways, their life. Though the statement and conversation initially caused me to feel quite discouraged, it was his stories of individuals whose lives have changed for the better that create hope. For these realizations...I thank you Axel.
When we landed in Christchurch, Axel was to meet his friend Bob, a New Zealand grandfather-type who is most delightful and true to Kiwi style, incredibly welcoming. They invited me to spend the day with them and offer me a tour of the city and all its little gems. I continued to be amazed by how honest and intelligent these two men were, both in their words and actions. I learned so much more yesterday than I ever could have reading even the most detailed history or cultural guide to Christchurch. Their generosity and hospitality were quite overwhelming but VERY appreciated. Thank you to Bob and Axel once again.
Today brought more fantastic weather, outdoor markets, and ample opportunities for me to get lost in this beautiful city. Also, while wandering about, I ran into the two Korean women who are staying in the same dorm as I am at this A-MAZING hostel designed solely for female travelers who pass through this area. The owner is an absolutely wonderful woman and has done such a great job creating this warm, inviting, and safe haven for all women travelers. Anyways, getting back on topic, it is really interesting to spend time "conversing" with these two women, as there are extreme language barriers! However, both last night and today, we bonded by sharing and teaching each other our languages (BEAUTIFUL)!!! I've never seen someone so excited and responsive to learning simple phrases like "no worries" (c'mon, I HAD to teach them that one). They taught me so much about motivation, drive, and the desire to learn, in addition to some slang Korean - whoop whoop! Thanks to them as well. They day is winding down and sunset is approaching...and here, with the sunset, we also get this frigid-cold breeze coming off Antartica that blows right through ya, regardless of how many layers of clothes I am wearing...even if I am bundled up as much as that kid from "A Christmas Story" - the breeze will FIND YOU! That being said, I am off to enjoy a nice cup of hot cocoa in front of the "fireplace" - a lovely DVD that captures the sound and image of a real fire, minus the heat, and set to the background of elevator music on repeat. YESSSSSSSSS! Much love to all. Miss yous.
On the flight from Auckland to Christchurch, I sat next to a man named Axel who enlightened me about his businesses and introduced me to a line of health products I'd never heard of before. He reassured me that many in my "field" (good 'ole nursing) hadn't heard of it either because, he reasoned, "you are in a sickness profession and I am in a health profession." That line holds great significance with me because it opened up a whole different perspective about nursing, about health, and about life. It has helped push me to think about ways in which I can use my degree to teach health promotion to various people in a way that would make them motivated to change their health habits, their ways, their life. Though the statement and conversation initially caused me to feel quite discouraged, it was his stories of individuals whose lives have changed for the better that create hope. For these realizations...I thank you Axel.
When we landed in Christchurch, Axel was to meet his friend Bob, a New Zealand grandfather-type who is most delightful and true to Kiwi style, incredibly welcoming. They invited me to spend the day with them and offer me a tour of the city and all its little gems. I continued to be amazed by how honest and intelligent these two men were, both in their words and actions. I learned so much more yesterday than I ever could have reading even the most detailed history or cultural guide to Christchurch. Their generosity and hospitality were quite overwhelming but VERY appreciated. Thank you to Bob and Axel once again.
Today brought more fantastic weather, outdoor markets, and ample opportunities for me to get lost in this beautiful city. Also, while wandering about, I ran into the two Korean women who are staying in the same dorm as I am at this A-MAZING hostel designed solely for female travelers who pass through this area. The owner is an absolutely wonderful woman and has done such a great job creating this warm, inviting, and safe haven for all women travelers. Anyways, getting back on topic, it is really interesting to spend time "conversing" with these two women, as there are extreme language barriers! However, both last night and today, we bonded by sharing and teaching each other our languages (BEAUTIFUL)!!! I've never seen someone so excited and responsive to learning simple phrases like "no worries" (c'mon, I HAD to teach them that one). They taught me so much about motivation, drive, and the desire to learn, in addition to some slang Korean - whoop whoop! Thanks to them as well. They day is winding down and sunset is approaching...and here, with the sunset, we also get this frigid-cold breeze coming off Antartica that blows right through ya, regardless of how many layers of clothes I am wearing...even if I am bundled up as much as that kid from "A Christmas Story" - the breeze will FIND YOU! That being said, I am off to enjoy a nice cup of hot cocoa in front of the "fireplace" - a lovely DVD that captures the sound and image of a real fire, minus the heat, and set to the background of elevator music on repeat. YESSSSSSSSS! Much love to all. Miss yous.
Monday, August 6, 2007
Back in Cusco
After a lovely 13-hour bus ride from La Paz, I am safely back in Cusco. I felt an incredible amount of security on the bus for some reason - could have either been the fact that the majority of the passengers were German tourists or that my seatmate was a Franciscan nun (awesome). We went through some lovely countryside, or mountainside if you consider how high we were at certain points in the trip - high enough where spontaneous nosebleeds occurred due to the altitude and dry air. I received a nice update from the lovely Danish girls, Birgitte and Maria, who are safely in Uyuni and visiting the salt flats (I believe).
These last two days in Cusco have really been quite lazy, so I have been spending some quality time with my journal and book. The book that I am reading is A-MAZING, so if I can make one recommendation...
"Mutant Message Down Under" By Marlo Morgan
One of the best books I have ever read and it´s guaranteed to make you rethink life and how we view the world - but if not, at the very least, it´s a fantastic read. Also, it has been a pleasure getting to speak with my roommates for the moment, two fantastic Russian-Canadian women who shared with me some of their history and perspectives on life. So to them, thank you for the wonderful conversations!
Hope all is well with everyone back home! Keep me updated. Miss you all.
These last two days in Cusco have really been quite lazy, so I have been spending some quality time with my journal and book. The book that I am reading is A-MAZING, so if I can make one recommendation...
"Mutant Message Down Under" By Marlo Morgan
One of the best books I have ever read and it´s guaranteed to make you rethink life and how we view the world - but if not, at the very least, it´s a fantastic read. Also, it has been a pleasure getting to speak with my roommates for the moment, two fantastic Russian-Canadian women who shared with me some of their history and perspectives on life. So to them, thank you for the wonderful conversations!
Hope all is well with everyone back home! Keep me updated. Miss you all.
Friday, August 3, 2007
Boliviana!
Greetings from La Paz! How exactly I got here...no se. After saying goodbye to our friends from the trek, I was left with a proposition to travel with the lovely Danish girls to Lake Titicaca - how can you pass up a trip to this infamous lake?? Thus, I packed my bags the next day and prepared to leave the following night on a bus that was to eventually take me to Copacabana. That´s right... Copa, Copacabaaaaaaaannnnaaaaa. And let me tell you, it is nearly impossible to NOT sing that song while you are meandering through the streets of Copa, Copacabaaanaaa. Luckily the girls knew it too, so I wasn´t the only one humming it all day long. So, after a bus change or two, I arrived at Copacabana in the early AM and met with the girls to find a place to stay. PS For future information, you literally have to WALK across the Peru/Bolivia border...and it´s up a hill, so at 4000mts, prepare work a little bit for your passport stamp.
We eventually found this great little hostal, well maybe just little hostal, with an lake-front view of the vast waters. The signs for kayaking were too tempting to pass up, and for the equivalent of 2.50USD, who wouldn´t want to kayak on Lake Titicaca. It was great to paddle out far enough so the sounds on shore were drowned out by the splashing of the waves against the kayak. Aside from the fact there was a hole in the kayak and the paddles were designed to empty into the lap of the person paddling, it was one of the best hours of my trip so far. Sadly, it´s very hard to pass up American products when you are scanning through lots of unknown products in dusty packaging, so our snacks for the day consisted of two flavors of Pringles. Don´t eat them at home so I wouldn´t know this, but they have got some crazy flavors here - Salt & Vinegar, Pizza, Jalepeno, Four Cheese?? Anyways, we basically ate our way through the first day we were there. Oddly enough, in the second most visited tourist town in Bolivia, there is no ATM...you have to see the "only bank man" that can despense 400 Bolivianos per person each day. Slightly odd. However, the highlight of the day (or for me, the entire time we were there) was discovering a little cafe that was full of Bolivian and Moroccan decor, had a very warm feel, and that blasted some of the best jazz music I´ve ever heard.
We visited the Isla de Sol the next day via a "speedboat" that dropped us off at the nothern part of the island. The 4-hour walk back was beautiful in every way - we were able to see some pre-Incan ruins, enjoy the incredibly varying landscape, and we had the opportunity to walk through some small villages along the way. The people and homes in those villages had such an amazing presence and personality...plus there were kids EVERYWHERE, so that only heightened the lively spirit of the village. The landscape covered all realms - we were walking on a path that was lined with rocks and looked like a Bolivian version of the Great Wall of China, all the while being able to see endless blue waters with snow-capped Andean mountains in the background. UNREAL! In addition, I learned a little more about my travelmates, which was a gift, as they shared with me their experiences and helped open my mind even further. Upon our return to Copacabana, it was time to meet "the money man" once more...this time, however, we weren´t the only ones. As we were waiting in line, in walk our two favorite Dutch twins, Paco y Ramone, who were also in search of the infamous money man. What are the chances??? So thankful to meet up with them again, as they are two of the most considerate and compassionate men I have ever met. They spent the evening with us, joining us for dinner at a quaint little restaurant along the main (and only) drag in Copacabana. I can´t really grasp how inexpensive it is to travel here, but for those at home, a dinner for 5 (including a whole pizza and 4 other main course dishes) with drinks and a bottle of wine...drumroll............about 25USD. NICE!!!! And once more, the amazing cafe with LIVE MUSIC from the owners themselves - A-MAZING!!! Could have stayed there all night - great ambiance, incredibly intricate improvisational soloing from all, and fabulous company. Couldn´t be better.
After an unforgettable night, the girls packed up their rucksacks for their travels to La Paz. La Paz you say, why not. One interesting 4-hour bus ride and we landed ourselves in the capital city. The girls who were ultimately wanting to get to Uyuni found a bus that left 20 minutes after we arrived. As traveling goes, off they went to visit the desert and salt mines of Uyuni and off I went to figure out where I was. Needless to say, things worked out well and within 3 hours, I was wondering the streets of the Witches Market. Nice, eh? Last night, due to the fact I only kept to the main streets, I didn´t get a chance to truly see how the people of this city live. It wasn´t until today that I realized how poor this country really is - the poverty is quite overwhelming. Just turn down any side street and you will see these people struggling to survive. It is amazing to me that despite their situation, they can channel their talents and craftsmanship to create products for sale to help sustain them. Thus, I tried to do my part and buy their products...all of them. Well, all of them except was is sold in the Black Market, which consisted of things such as llama fetuses (placed under the foundations of a home as a symbol of good luck and offering for the Pachamama). Tonight, it´s off the the southern part of town to visit the highest oxygen bar in the world, followed by a coca tea at a nearby cafe. Much love to all, miss you very much! Take care.
We eventually found this great little hostal, well maybe just little hostal, with an lake-front view of the vast waters. The signs for kayaking were too tempting to pass up, and for the equivalent of 2.50USD, who wouldn´t want to kayak on Lake Titicaca. It was great to paddle out far enough so the sounds on shore were drowned out by the splashing of the waves against the kayak. Aside from the fact there was a hole in the kayak and the paddles were designed to empty into the lap of the person paddling, it was one of the best hours of my trip so far. Sadly, it´s very hard to pass up American products when you are scanning through lots of unknown products in dusty packaging, so our snacks for the day consisted of two flavors of Pringles. Don´t eat them at home so I wouldn´t know this, but they have got some crazy flavors here - Salt & Vinegar, Pizza, Jalepeno, Four Cheese?? Anyways, we basically ate our way through the first day we were there. Oddly enough, in the second most visited tourist town in Bolivia, there is no ATM...you have to see the "only bank man" that can despense 400 Bolivianos per person each day. Slightly odd. However, the highlight of the day (or for me, the entire time we were there) was discovering a little cafe that was full of Bolivian and Moroccan decor, had a very warm feel, and that blasted some of the best jazz music I´ve ever heard.
We visited the Isla de Sol the next day via a "speedboat" that dropped us off at the nothern part of the island. The 4-hour walk back was beautiful in every way - we were able to see some pre-Incan ruins, enjoy the incredibly varying landscape, and we had the opportunity to walk through some small villages along the way. The people and homes in those villages had such an amazing presence and personality...plus there were kids EVERYWHERE, so that only heightened the lively spirit of the village. The landscape covered all realms - we were walking on a path that was lined with rocks and looked like a Bolivian version of the Great Wall of China, all the while being able to see endless blue waters with snow-capped Andean mountains in the background. UNREAL! In addition, I learned a little more about my travelmates, which was a gift, as they shared with me their experiences and helped open my mind even further. Upon our return to Copacabana, it was time to meet "the money man" once more...this time, however, we weren´t the only ones. As we were waiting in line, in walk our two favorite Dutch twins, Paco y Ramone, who were also in search of the infamous money man. What are the chances??? So thankful to meet up with them again, as they are two of the most considerate and compassionate men I have ever met. They spent the evening with us, joining us for dinner at a quaint little restaurant along the main (and only) drag in Copacabana. I can´t really grasp how inexpensive it is to travel here, but for those at home, a dinner for 5 (including a whole pizza and 4 other main course dishes) with drinks and a bottle of wine...drumroll............about 25USD. NICE!!!! And once more, the amazing cafe with LIVE MUSIC from the owners themselves - A-MAZING!!! Could have stayed there all night - great ambiance, incredibly intricate improvisational soloing from all, and fabulous company. Couldn´t be better.
After an unforgettable night, the girls packed up their rucksacks for their travels to La Paz. La Paz you say, why not. One interesting 4-hour bus ride and we landed ourselves in the capital city. The girls who were ultimately wanting to get to Uyuni found a bus that left 20 minutes after we arrived. As traveling goes, off they went to visit the desert and salt mines of Uyuni and off I went to figure out where I was. Needless to say, things worked out well and within 3 hours, I was wondering the streets of the Witches Market. Nice, eh? Last night, due to the fact I only kept to the main streets, I didn´t get a chance to truly see how the people of this city live. It wasn´t until today that I realized how poor this country really is - the poverty is quite overwhelming. Just turn down any side street and you will see these people struggling to survive. It is amazing to me that despite their situation, they can channel their talents and craftsmanship to create products for sale to help sustain them. Thus, I tried to do my part and buy their products...all of them. Well, all of them except was is sold in the Black Market, which consisted of things such as llama fetuses (placed under the foundations of a home as a symbol of good luck and offering for the Pachamama). Tonight, it´s off the the southern part of town to visit the highest oxygen bar in the world, followed by a coca tea at a nearby cafe. Much love to all, miss you very much! Take care.
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Salkantay Trek
Hello to all! Sorry for the delay on the latest update, but I have only just returned from my Salkantay Trekking adventure! Let´s just start by saying WOW - in every possible aspect, this trip was a wow. The people I´ve met from our trek are absolutely amazing and really bring unique personalities to the table! I learned something from each and every one of them, whether they knew it or not. Once again I have to send a huge shout-out to Ashley Curl for being herself and for being my personal life coach and motivator for this particular trek. Ashley, I am not sure I could have made it without your constant encouragement - thank you. That being said, here is our trek...
We started out Day 1 driving 2 hours through these really small Andean villages that were absolutely beautiful and, on occasion, we were able to catch a glimpse of the way of life in these villages (we watched men guidng mules, women washing clothes and preparing food, and children roaming around finding pleasure in the simplest of things). After a quick breakfast in Limatumbo, we started our trek at Cruzpata (3200mts) walking about 3.5 hours before stopping to have our first lunch on the trail! First wow = damn we are high above sea level. Second wow = we keep going higher. Third wow = this amazing meal came from only one skillet and propane tank? It didn´t take very long to realize that looking forward to the meals would be my primary motivation to keep hiking during the day. After lunch, we hiked another couple hours to our first campsite at Soraypampa (3850mts), which did offer a great view of the Salkantay Mountains that rest at 6264mts. Thank the heavens above and good ole PachaMama (the Incan Mother Nature) we did not have to hike those snow-covered peaks. Fourth wow = these mountains are BRILLIANT! Fifth wow = nights here are paralyzingly cold. Sixth wow = it´s literally 6pm and I´ve never wanted to go to bed like I do right now.
Day 2 - As we were warned in advance by our two lovely guides Mauro and Orlando, this would be the roughest day of the whole trek. Was a little nervous starting out the day because the altitude was testing me a bit, but was interested to see what the day would bring. Seventh wow = holy crap, I am wheezing like an old donkey going up this mountain - UN-NECESSARY! So this mountain, the Apacheta pass is 4590 mts high. Twenty minutes after beginning the 3-hour uphill battle, it started to rain. About an hour later, we realized, "huh, this rain is surprisingly soft and sticky...oh wait, it´s snow!" Eighth wow = we are higher than the clouds, it´s snowing, and yet we are going higher...loooove it! I had a bit of trouble making it to the top of the mountain without a little help from my friend, mule #3...interesting experience, but I was slightly bitter due to the fact we were only 5 minutes from the peak (apparently my wheezing prompted Orlando to insist I get on the "medical help (aka mule #3)." Anyways, once we reached the top, due to the fact it was snowing and we were in the clouds, we unfortunately did not get a great view of the Salkantay mountains. But that is okay because it was kinda neat to hike in the snow, a realization I made only after changing into dry clothes and eating the fabulous food our master chef made for us that afternoon. We ended up hiking 20+ kms that day...yea, that would be the ninth wow.
Day 3 - This day was amazing for me because it consisted of constant up and downs...thus, no hiking uphill for hours at a time. It is on this day that we first entered the "jungle" of Ceja de Selva. The only thing I really remember of this day was that we hiked for 6 hours in the morning and once we reached "the beach/la playa" for lunch, we were done hiking for the day. This was a fantastic day for that reason alone, but it also gave me the opportunity to learn more about my fellow trekkers. I spent the afternoon playing cards with 4 kids from Holland, 2 French-Canadians, and our two Peruvian guides. As we neared yet another feeding time and the remaining trekkers emerged from the slumbers, the entire group of 15 people sat around in a circle and played a massive game of Bullshit, which was soooooooo much fun! The games continued on into the night until my bedtime of 9pm emerged. Sad but true and absolutely necessary.
Day 4 - We hiked up Llactapata (2700 mts) for four hours to the peak, which was home to some recently-discovered Incan ruins that overlooked Machu Picchu and its surroundings. The weather when we first arrived to the ruins was very cloudy and misty. However, as we sat on the grass looking out into the white abyss in the general direction of where Machu Picchu was supposed to be, the mist began to lift and the Incan wonder slowly came into sight. Within the 30 minutes that we were on the overlook, the mist lifted and the sun started to shine! Pretty amazing transformation. After we enjoyed the newly revealed sights, we headed downhill for another two hours in order to reach the hydoelectric plant where we were to catch a train to Aguas Calientes, the base town for travelers going to Machu Picchu. The train to Aguas Calientes was amusing, as we were all tired, sweaty, and hallucinating (primarily about things we desired...chocolate and showers). Once at Aguas Calientes, we all darted to our rooms and fought each other for the first shower - probably the best shower of my life because it was hot and the water pressure was phenomenal. Alter getting clean, I wandered the markets of Peruvians selling their handmade crafts in tents that lined the river and bridges of the town. We ate dinner at the hostel (had some of the best lasagna I´ve ever eaten...and it was made out of quinoa) and the resumed our fun of playing Bullshit in a large group. Sleeping in a bed was much welcomed, though felt a little weird after having slept on the ground for the prior nights. Tenth wow = showers are NOT overrated as I have previously stated on many occasions.
Day 5 – MACHU PICCHU = Eleventh WOW!!!! It´s quite obvious why it´s one of the new 7 Wonders of the World. It is absolutely amazing what the Incans did to build this beautiful white city overlooking the world. It is really hard to say anything more about it because it was indescribeable. We made a collective decision to hike Wina Picchu to get the best view of the ruins, as we realized it might be our last chance to do so. SO MUCH FUN! Everything was great. Even waiting three hours, in the middle of the train tracks in Aguas Calientes for our train back to Cusco was unforgettable. Out for the night in Cusco for some dinner and drinks with the group before we all head out separate ways on our separate adventures! Twelveth wow = Thanks to all that were a part of making this trek amazing.
We started out Day 1 driving 2 hours through these really small Andean villages that were absolutely beautiful and, on occasion, we were able to catch a glimpse of the way of life in these villages (we watched men guidng mules, women washing clothes and preparing food, and children roaming around finding pleasure in the simplest of things). After a quick breakfast in Limatumbo, we started our trek at Cruzpata (3200mts) walking about 3.5 hours before stopping to have our first lunch on the trail! First wow = damn we are high above sea level. Second wow = we keep going higher. Third wow = this amazing meal came from only one skillet and propane tank? It didn´t take very long to realize that looking forward to the meals would be my primary motivation to keep hiking during the day. After lunch, we hiked another couple hours to our first campsite at Soraypampa (3850mts), which did offer a great view of the Salkantay Mountains that rest at 6264mts. Thank the heavens above and good ole PachaMama (the Incan Mother Nature) we did not have to hike those snow-covered peaks. Fourth wow = these mountains are BRILLIANT! Fifth wow = nights here are paralyzingly cold. Sixth wow = it´s literally 6pm and I´ve never wanted to go to bed like I do right now.
Day 2 - As we were warned in advance by our two lovely guides Mauro and Orlando, this would be the roughest day of the whole trek. Was a little nervous starting out the day because the altitude was testing me a bit, but was interested to see what the day would bring. Seventh wow = holy crap, I am wheezing like an old donkey going up this mountain - UN-NECESSARY! So this mountain, the Apacheta pass is 4590 mts high. Twenty minutes after beginning the 3-hour uphill battle, it started to rain. About an hour later, we realized, "huh, this rain is surprisingly soft and sticky...oh wait, it´s snow!" Eighth wow = we are higher than the clouds, it´s snowing, and yet we are going higher...loooove it! I had a bit of trouble making it to the top of the mountain without a little help from my friend, mule #3...interesting experience, but I was slightly bitter due to the fact we were only 5 minutes from the peak (apparently my wheezing prompted Orlando to insist I get on the "medical help (aka mule #3)." Anyways, once we reached the top, due to the fact it was snowing and we were in the clouds, we unfortunately did not get a great view of the Salkantay mountains. But that is okay because it was kinda neat to hike in the snow, a realization I made only after changing into dry clothes and eating the fabulous food our master chef made for us that afternoon. We ended up hiking 20+ kms that day...yea, that would be the ninth wow.
Day 3 - This day was amazing for me because it consisted of constant up and downs...thus, no hiking uphill for hours at a time. It is on this day that we first entered the "jungle" of Ceja de Selva. The only thing I really remember of this day was that we hiked for 6 hours in the morning and once we reached "the beach/la playa" for lunch, we were done hiking for the day. This was a fantastic day for that reason alone, but it also gave me the opportunity to learn more about my fellow trekkers. I spent the afternoon playing cards with 4 kids from Holland, 2 French-Canadians, and our two Peruvian guides. As we neared yet another feeding time and the remaining trekkers emerged from the slumbers, the entire group of 15 people sat around in a circle and played a massive game of Bullshit, which was soooooooo much fun! The games continued on into the night until my bedtime of 9pm emerged. Sad but true and absolutely necessary.
Day 4 - We hiked up Llactapata (2700 mts) for four hours to the peak, which was home to some recently-discovered Incan ruins that overlooked Machu Picchu and its surroundings. The weather when we first arrived to the ruins was very cloudy and misty. However, as we sat on the grass looking out into the white abyss in the general direction of where Machu Picchu was supposed to be, the mist began to lift and the Incan wonder slowly came into sight. Within the 30 minutes that we were on the overlook, the mist lifted and the sun started to shine! Pretty amazing transformation. After we enjoyed the newly revealed sights, we headed downhill for another two hours in order to reach the hydoelectric plant where we were to catch a train to Aguas Calientes, the base town for travelers going to Machu Picchu. The train to Aguas Calientes was amusing, as we were all tired, sweaty, and hallucinating (primarily about things we desired...chocolate and showers). Once at Aguas Calientes, we all darted to our rooms and fought each other for the first shower - probably the best shower of my life because it was hot and the water pressure was phenomenal. Alter getting clean, I wandered the markets of Peruvians selling their handmade crafts in tents that lined the river and bridges of the town. We ate dinner at the hostel (had some of the best lasagna I´ve ever eaten...and it was made out of quinoa) and the resumed our fun of playing Bullshit in a large group. Sleeping in a bed was much welcomed, though felt a little weird after having slept on the ground for the prior nights. Tenth wow = showers are NOT overrated as I have previously stated on many occasions.
Day 5 – MACHU PICCHU = Eleventh WOW!!!! It´s quite obvious why it´s one of the new 7 Wonders of the World. It is absolutely amazing what the Incans did to build this beautiful white city overlooking the world. It is really hard to say anything more about it because it was indescribeable. We made a collective decision to hike Wina Picchu to get the best view of the ruins, as we realized it might be our last chance to do so. SO MUCH FUN! Everything was great. Even waiting three hours, in the middle of the train tracks in Aguas Calientes for our train back to Cusco was unforgettable. Out for the night in Cusco for some dinner and drinks with the group before we all head out separate ways on our separate adventures! Twelveth wow = Thanks to all that were a part of making this trek amazing.
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