Tigua

September 29th - 30th

From Quito, we took a super-crowded city bus to the main bus terminal, during which people would shove themselves through the doors, then look at us and complain audibly about the size of our backpacks. We first took a bus to Latacunga, the capital city of the Cotopaxi region, where we debated about staying since it was already 8pm, but stuck with the original plan of getting to Tigua before the night's end. There were forty minutes to kill, so we walked across the street to the beacon of light/supermarket with all of our bags...the looks we got were pretty classic. Moving in? Supermarkets with more than 3 rows of food and carrying 3 or more brand names we recognize make us giddy little children! It's all about the simple things. After stocking up, we boarded a bus decked out in faux red leather and gold tassel window dressings and rode off into the night. 

About an hour later, the wingman comes and taps us on the shoulder to let us know our stop is approaching. Before departing the station, Bea had written the name of two different hostels down on a piece of paper, which she'd shown the wingman. So, we gathered up our carry-ons and stepped off the bus...into BLACKNESS! Other than a very faint, blurry light in the distance, the only light was coming from the amazingly bright stars overhead. I'm pretty sure the only words out of my mouth were, "uhhh, YOU ARE NOT LEAVING US HERE - GET BACK ON THE BUS!" We positioned ourselves strategically - Hannah by the luggage, me by the luggage and bus door, and Bea went towards the faint light to ask the people inside if this was the right town. The entire time, the wingman was confirming that this was indeed the right town, the one on the paper she had shown him. Almost as soon as she reached the little house (one of three that we could see in the general area), she turned around and headed back towards the bus. Meanwhile, the indigenous people on the bus started protecting us and taking our side, screaming out the window, "you cannot leave them here....it is very dangerous!" One older indigenous woman even got out and escorted Bea to the house. I felt honored they would care at all, much less speak up on our behalf. Once Bea, who speaks Spanish fluently (thank goodness), got into a long conversation with the wingman, we watched that "lightbulb" moment move across his face. Apparently, one of hostel's names was also a "town" along the bus route, and the wingman assumed that was where we wanted to go! Relieved but still slightly concerned, we boarded the bus once again until TIGUA! 

Once back on the bus, we shared a long, hesitant laugh about what had just happened. Bea then explained what happened when she approached the house. "There were three kids in bed with their mother and the bed was in the same room as the kitchen, and next door there was a...a, you know...where was Jesus born?" Responding simultaneously, Hannah guessed "a manger?" while I said hesitantly "Bethlehem?" Haha. Then, I had a somewhat out-of-body experience...one second we are laughing about the manger, and the next second, I'm staring at the golden tassels bouncing against the pitch black window, listening to the theme song from the "Grease" soundtrack play overhead, and slowly realizing that the bus driver's wife (who, out of concern, had come back to speak with us about our lodging situation) was saying we could stay in the guest room of her house in the town of "Macuchi." Whaaaat is going on?!? Umm...you really live in a town called "Macuchi?" Due to the fact I am a mature, culturally-aware traveler, I only laughed straight for five full minutes instead of ten ;-) I mean really, say it out loud and try not to laugh...that is all I am saying. Once we quieted down from that, Hannah and I (sitting in the two seats ahead of Bea) informed Bea that there was a guy behind her that appeared a little sketchy, leaning up onto her headrest and looking at the things in her seat. So, being the badass she is, Bea turned around immediately and in Spanish told the guy, "you better not even think about trying anything or I will poke your eyeballs out!" Blending in with our diplomatic relations is what we are all about! The look on that guy's face was, however, priceless. 

Finally, the bus stopped at the actual town of Tigua. So once again, we gathered our belongings, stepped off the bus and realized it looked...the SAME! The only difference was that this time, the bus pulled away before we could protest. There were a handful more houses that were visible in the streetlamp's dull lighting and, in the not so far distance, we were able to identify the outlines of many stray dogs running directly towards us. We quickly decided to ascend a steep hill towards the other dull light we saw emerging from a home in the distance. Trying to climb a muddy and thin little trail up the side of a hill in the dark is actually more difficult than one would think. Once we made it, Bea tried to get anyone's attention from just outside the house - thankfully, she did! The gentleman she spoke with knew the owner of the hostel, so he sent his son to get the owner. The man that came down to meet us informed us he was indeed the owner of the FORMER hostel. Seeing as it was close to 11pm, our options were quite slim...and I'm pretty sure he read that all over our faces. He offered for us to stay in a spare bedroom they had in the upstairs of their home, because he either felt sorry for us or simply has a kind heart! We did the mandatory "oh, no, we couldn't possibly thing" in our heads for less than 2 seconds and jumped at the kind offer. 


Tigua - all of it!


Toaquiza home from the outside, during daylight!

So, here we are in the middle of nowhere, hiking up a mountainside in complete darkness toward one bed in an "artist's getaway workroom." The father, Julio Toaquiza was the main local artist and owner of the town's art gallery. On the walls of the room were pictures of the well-travelled Julio in various countries, posters of his daughter - Sisa Toaquiza, a singer of folk and cumbia music, and other random posters, such as the Teletubbies and the former mayor dressed in drag. Yeah, don't really know what to say about that, other than the craziness of that room was phenomenal! After some conversation about the places he'd travelled and life in Tigua, he walked us a little further into the room to show us the maybe full-size bed. Without missing a beat, we all exclaimed "this is perfect!" Let's just say, for three grown women, it was a VERY snug fit. Once he left us to settle in and prepare for bed, we changed into our ridiculous long johns and warm hats that we'd purchased earlier that day - same design, different colors. We looked special for sure! Group trip to the restroom outside with the one headlamp - the wife liked the headlamps and used one to find her way back to the main house in the dark - where we did a bucket "flush" for the toilet and brushed teeth with dry toothbrushes. Being the last to pile into bed, I rounded the corner and saw Bea and Hannah sitting up, journaling and realized that bed already looked quite full. It was...tight. And so were our long johns! As we are about to close our eyes, Bea asks, "do you think there is Internet here?" :-)  Rarely do I laugh to the point of crying, but the tears were just rolling down my face many times today! Classic! 







This is the look we observed for the majority of the night!




Pillows for toddlers.

We awoke and began packing up, taking last looks around the room to appreciate it's awesomeness and the ridiculousness of the whole situation. On our way out, the women of the house offered us a warm breakfast! The three of us has the opportunity to discuss life in Andean Ecuador with them, which was both informative and humbling. I am unsure how or why where you are born can have a huge hand in the cards you are dealt in life - the challenges (daily here) and the opportunities that may or may not come one's way - but it does. Through our travels, however, we have been blessed to observe and meet those individuals who by no means are privileged - and yet, they are by far more happy and more aware of what truly matters in life - family, friends, food, and adaptation to one's situation - than most in "first-world" countries. 


Timmy, the family dog that never left our side, even when we wanted him to!


View from directly outside the house.


After breakfast, Julio invited us to visit the art gallery, which was covered with similar paintings to those blueprints we'd seen in the room. We appreciated each painting to the soundtrack of his daughter, Sisa Toaquiza's first album. His other older daughter accompanied us to the gallery as well, and both father and sister were visibly proud when the first few notes BLARED through the stereo. We spoke a bit more, bought some small thread bracelets to commemorate the experience, and said our thank you's and goodbyes before RUNNING across the way and back to our bags in time to catch the approaching bus back to Latacunga. Obviously, we needed to regroup and maybe do more research about actual hostels along the Quilatoa Loop before trying again ;-) What an unexpectedly amazing experience! Thanks to the Toaquiza family for harboring three semi-unkempt backpackers who only wore faces of disbelief for the first hour that you met them! We are grateful!  



For more about Julio's art: http://www.adventure-life.com/articles/ecuadorian-artists-39/

Scootering, Mindo, and Liga

September 27th - 29th

Scootering,  Round 2! The scooters we rented in Quito were serious! Their horsepower must have been double what the Roatan scooter had because we could MOVE on those scooters. Being as it was a 200+ kilometer, GPS-guided ride through the beautiful rolling hills of Ecuador on various unpaved roads, we decided it would be more comfortable (and probably safer) if Hannah and I got our own scooters. After gearing up with awesome scooter helmets, cutoff gloves, and a double toga-like reflective vests, we headed out of Quito proper on the scary main roads. Luckily, after being honked at a few times, we turned off the main paved roads and started climbing on the windy, gravel roads. Let me tell you, if you have any sort of body image issue, I would not recommend driving a scooter on gravel and compact dirt/rock roads - things jiggle that you didn't even know could! I'm almost certain subcutaneous tissue in my fingers were shaking all about! The views were very "Lord of the Rings"-esque - grandiose and breath-taking in a very dramatic fashion. The ride was absolutely blissful...until we realized the road was NEVER going to end! Every part of our bodies had gone numb hours ago, and the continued bumpy ride became somewhat painful. In addition, as we were FINALLY winding down the paved road into a small town called Mindo, a stop on our self-guided tour, it began down pouring. 









So thankful to have stopped riding, we took shelter and joined a chocolate tour (40 minutes late) being given by the creator/owner/entrepreneur/ experimentalist of Mindo Chocolate Makers, Jose. Though he originally moved to Ecuador with his wife in 2008 for a quiet, semi-retired life, his constantly-inventive mind quickly moved them into the coffee and cocoa growing/farming business. We toured the fermentation, roasting, and "winnowing" areas of the complex, in addition to the garden and farming area. This man has about one square acre and has jam-packed it with more than 20 different types of plants - coffee, cocoa, stevia, cabbage, lettuce, tomato, guayaba, lemongrass, ginger, etc. All individuals on the tour had an opportunity to try cocoa at every stage, including the bean itself straight out of the fruit. I can tell you with certainty, I enjoy cocoa only when mixed with sugar!  That stuff was BITTER! We also had the opportunity to try his very own BBQ sauce made with miel de chocolate (a liquid by-product from the fermentation process) and ginger syrup, which he serves on the house pancakes. I sampled his homemade "ginger ale" and spent the following 10 minutes allowing the burned esophagus feeling to subside. Pretty sure that was quite literally carbonated water and ginger - INTENSE! It was a great tour and experience that left me full of new knowledge and feeling pretty lazy! Haha.




When we exited the restaurant/hotel/tour house, darkness had descended and the rain continued. Determined to get back to Quito, we hopped on the scooters and headed up the windy paved road leading out of Mindo and connecting with the main one-lane road that leads to the city. We sat there for a solid ten minutes, debating whether we should attempt the trip back or stay in Mindo for the night. There was a woman waiting for a bus back to Quito at the top of the hill - we asked if we could wait with her, thinking we might be able to fit the scooters in the bus and make it back to Quito as planned. The bus came, and not only would they not fit in the luggage space available, there was no way Hannah, myself, and the bus's wingman could lift the beastly machines. After receiving our 17th warning that scootering back at night on the windy road would be very dangerous, and with our parents mainly in mind, we turned around and scootered back to Mindo. Not having prepared to stay, we brought a minimal amount of cash with us n the trip - we explained the situation to the man in the internet cafe as we contacted our hostel in Quito inform them as well (glad we did because the first words out of Yaccou's mouth were "oh my gosh, we were worried sick about you, man!"). The man told us to wait a moment, ran across the street and returned a few minutes later offering us a hostel room for lower than the average nightly rate. The man's friend ran the hostel, so aware of our situation, he gave us a private room for $10....total! The people of Mindo were so generous and kind...overall, it felt like the universe was rewarding us for making the safe decision! Though sleeping in wet clothes isn't the most comfortable thing in the world, we were quite pleased with the events of the evening! Thanks people of Mindo! 




In the morning, we headed out pretty early after filling up with glacier blue gasoline from the town's ferreteria. Maybe it's just my lack of knowledge on the gasoline arts, but is your gas supposed to be blue? Could've passed as washer fluid...or mountain berry-flavored Gatorade. Our decision to stay was yet again affirmed when we realized the ride was stressful even during daylight hours! The ride itself, not stressful...the trucks that don't consider you another "vehicle" and thus rush by you on blind curves while laying on the horn...semi-stressful. After about two hours, we reached Media del Mundo!! Latitude 0'0'0'! There is a beautiful monument reflecting the significance of, well, the lack of latitude, that has now been surrounded by vendors trying to capitalize on the presence of all the tourist traffic. Technically, this monument is not at the actual 0'0'0 point, but no one really needs to know. Hannah and I snuck into the back entrance of the museum/gardens that houses the exact point - there is a hefty entrance fee, so we just snapped a picture from the distance and made a quick exit! It's weird...can't say I've spent much time thinking about 0 latitude, but since my mind focused on the "line" part of it, I'd thought the elevation would've sea level. Obviously, once my mind separated GPS coordinates and elevation as two totally different things, I wonder what the range of elevation is along the 0 latitude "line!" 


In two hemispheres!



We have an actual jumping picture, but I like this "almost" shot better!


Typical playground companions around these parts.

When we finally fought our way through the city traffic, equally terrifying, we returned our scooters and retired to our hostel, where we did absolutely nothing! Cabin fever set in shortly after that, so we decided to just stroll around town. We passed a few jersey stores and remembered that it was the day of the Liga game, the main Quito futbol team. There was only one hour from the time we discovered when the game was to when we arrived, shortly after the game had started. In that time, we hauled it to the ATM, got gelato, and speed-walked to catch the express bus out of town! Upon arrival, people from the bus terminal just started sprinting to the stadium, which was literally across the street, maybe 100 yards. We don't really enjoy when people run, especially if they are coming from behind us, because we assume they are approaching us to rob us. That anxiety is heightened 100% when you realize, "oh crap, we just withdrew and are packing some serious money!" Luckily, looking as non-chalant as possible and cheering with the locals kept us safe! We waited in a LONG, around-the-corner line to go into the "crazy fan" section. At one point, a group of Europeans looked around, spotted us/fellow gringos, approached us and asked if they could cut in front of us. Having waited in line for 30-plus minutes (and having morals), we 100% turned on our own kind, and in Spanish responded, "ummm, the back of the line is over there, and you are perfectly capable of waiting in line like the rest of us!" They looked hurt, but also intoxicated, so I'm sure they forgot about it two seconds later. Good times. This game gave you the "typical" futbol-obsessed crowd one hopes to experience in these countries - fireworks, team songs, a marching band in the stands behind each goal, toilet paper and receipt paper rolls being thrown onto the field at the opposing team's goalie, banners, and lots of singing, jumping, and screaming! The best part about the game had to be the video they looped on the big screen saying, "Liga no es violencia!" while simultaneously showing clips of horrible things that happen at "other" games. Though not super funny, one clip showed a referee walking back out onto the field from the locker rooms, and as soon as he cleared the covered pathway and stepped foot on the field, a receipt paper roll hit him directly in the head, knocking him out cold - pretty "alarmusing," in a "Wipeout" sort of way. Snacks? Sure, would you like empanadas de carne, chicharrones or popcorn with tomato sauce? Another fun reminder that we aren't in Kansas anymore! Crazy ride home in a mosh pit-style, super crowded bus!





The next morning, Hannah, myself, and a girl we met, Bea, headed out to buy warmer clothing for our upcoming hike of the Quilotoa Loop, a circuit of dirt roads connecting various Andean villages in the mountains surrounding Lago Quilotoa to the capital of the region, Latacunga. On the way out, Bea turns to us and says, "I'm in the mood for a really nasty burger!" Just a warning...there will be lots of great one-liners from this girl. After eating at "The G Spot" (the only thing that makes any of that ok was the fact a good futbol game was playing in the restaurant!), we headed back to the hostel to pack! Another journey to come...and then, there were three!

Quito, Ecuador

September 23rd - 26th

In contrast to our Colombian exit, our entry into Ecuador was fast and smooth - we got a "Bienvenidos" AND a smile! We boarded a bus, listened to a man with a boom box on his shoulder (literally) who was free-styling to the beat of a "50 Cent" song, and then realized the bus we were on was heading in the complete opposite direction of where we needs to be. After hopping off and setting a price with a taxi driver, we started heading to the "Old Town" area - we tried to show him a map and point to the exact corner, but he wasn't really feeling that idea. The conversation went a little like so...cabbie: "No, I don't know where that hostel is." Us: "Would you like to see a map?" Cabbie: "Yes! Let me see it!" I hold up the map and point to the general area. While not even glancing in the general direction of the map, he waves his hand towards me and says "no, I can't see it." Ohhhhhhh k. Us: "You know, the park in San Blas is fine." A few minutes later, the skies opened and traffic descended. As we were just sitting and waiting, admiring the way the taillights reflected through the huge raindrops on the windows, the taxi driver turns and says, "I think you should pay me the $5 for the ride and $5 for my time I'm losing while sitting in this traffic." "Oh, thanks for the offer, but seeing as the traffic is not our fault, nor is the fact you continue sitting here rather than choosing a different route, I think we will stick with the amount we agreed on." I should have anticipated something based on the silence that followed, but I was just proud that I was able to find those words in Spanish. I was feeling sassy. And I guess he sensed that, because, coupled with his lack of knowledge of the area, he literally told us to get out in the MIDDLE of a 4-lane underpass freeway. After the customary "are you serious" protests from the both of us, we decided he wasn't joking, nor would he have known where to go anyway. The cars weren't really an issue due to the standstill traffic, but as soon as we stepped foot outside the cab, we found ourselves wading in mid-calf deep, very cold, running water. We ran across different overpasses, seeking shelter under various vendors' umbrellas for a few minutes at a time. Not only are we two Americanas with extremely large, abnormal-looking baggage running around at night, but we are soaking wet in our short-sleeved shirts, shorts, and sandals in the 35-degree weather. So, looking rough attracts attention...usually, it is negative. However, in this case, it attracted the concern of a gentlemen getting bread who worked for a hostel up the road...he took pity on us, gave us his umbrella, and escorted us to the dorms for our inspection. It looked clean, and sometimes, you are just too exhausted to care. What a night!


Quito Viejo

We spent the day roaming around the city and exploring Quito's historic district, beginning with Plaza Grande. There was a group of individuals, whether it be city-sponsored or whatnot, who ran a number of different activities for children throughout the plaza - chalk-drawing, jump roping, face painting, bubble making, and rides on a multi-seat bike. Since making and blowing bubbles doesn't ever get old, Hannah and I wedged ourselves between a group of children surrounding a fountain full of bubble solution to partake in the fun! What a great program for children and the community in general!






Meandering around, we found ourselves in front of the main Basilica, which dominates the Old Town's skyline. We climbed a variety of staircases and ladders to reach the many different viewing areas the basilica had to offer. The views of the city went on for miles and miles in every direction. The clock and bell towers provided a unique antiquity that charmed us for quite a while - many photographs taken there!











After a "tortillos con verde" lunch, we continued meandering through the streets of Old Towne, to the soundtrack of various street performers playing folk-like style, windpipe arrangements of classic ballads, like "My Heart Will Go On." Even as an instrumental, that song still irritates me. As we strolled into Plaza San Francisco, there were two things that stood out: there were two large "teams" of pigeons resting atop buildings on opposing sides of the plaza that would take turns swan diving through the plaza and about 5 inches above every bystander trying to enjoy the day (not ok!) AND there was a huge "Discover Firefighting" event going on in the plaza. Though we were afraid something on the fire engine may have broken if we climbed on top of it and explored like all the other children, we did partake in the one event. We waited in a line to gear up (legit - oxygen tanks, masks, and the entire suit minus boots) and crawl through a pitch black maze full of smoke. Though we could see that it was a simple L-shaped maze from the outside, when you are in there, all reason goes out the window! Without realizing it, my respiratory rate suddenly became over 35 and when my tank prevented me from squeezing over an obstacle they'd placed in the maze's path, I started to panic a little - mainly because after I finally made it over the teetering tabletop, I realized my shoe hadn't made it with me...so then I had to do that bit TWICE! We both eventually made it, but came out with a whole new appreciation for the difficulty, technique, and bravery needed to do such a "job" - a very humbling experience, indeed. So, for all of those firefighters out there, and really anyone who has MADE it through fire school - you have my utmost respect (yeah Lizzard!) No day would be complete without gelato at sunset!






On Sunday, we started the day out well by eating what ended up being rice with 1/4 of an egg in a small tienda with roaches on the wall. When we saw them, we ate/stopped eating a little faster than we were before - however, we did have entertainment in the form of three drunk men (mind you, it is 8:30am) serenading the jukebox that was playing at maximum volume. However, once we got to El Ejido park, everything got better! We found a family renting out random bikes...garage sale purchases or products of various thefts maybe? Whatever it was, we embraced the low-riding, crooked bikes with no brakes and began riding with other locals in the middle of huge streets that officials had shut down for "ciclodia!" Now, it's cool already simply pretending you are a car, just on a bike, riding down the dotted line...but throw in two amazing parks with their respective flash-mob style, outdoor jazzercise classes and you have a REMARKABLE day! These people, of every age, shape, and size, were KILLING IT!! These dudes in spandex shorts and hi-tops created a series of extremely complicated steps that the masses seemed to pick up in one attempt! We watched for about 30 minutes before trying it out for ourselves - even the basic, "cool-down" steps were pretty darn complicated. Hannah and I only had to make fools of ourselves for about 2 minutes before a lady came by collecting money for the class - at which point we turned and exited semi-gracefully. The other park had a similar, less-complicated jazzercise class as well. Though I am not sure it was due to the fact we were there during "Semana de Movimento" (week of movement), or if this is how Quitoians roll, but the entire park looked like a movie set! Cheer teams were practicing, Dads were teaching sons to catch, girls were playing Ring-Around-the-Rosie, friends were playing futbol, old colleagues were playing rounds of tennis...at any moment, I was expecting a huge camera crew to roll trailing two actors or something! It was just...HAPPY! Elated and filled with an experimental spirit, Hannah and I tried the "Nica" style of riding - one person sitting side-saddle on the horizontal bar running from the seat to the handlebars while the other steers and pedals. This is probably quite difficult on bikes with brakes and that actually steer straight. Mission Ride Nica Style = Fail! All I remember is we ended up on the cement, tearing up from laughing so hard, and slowly becoming aware of how many others were laughing at us as well! After returning the bikes, we recovered at an outdoor cafe that was broadcasting a local futbol game. One of the most care-free, pure FUN days we've had on this entire trip!!

Monday brought a VERY cool "Changing of the Guards" at the Presidential Palace. First of all, the guards carry long bamboo sticks with little Ecuadorian flags on the end of them instead of guns. Plus, they SING!! There were various bands playing patriotic songs while the guards marched into position. Also, THE PRESIDENT himself, along with his family and all important members of his cabinet, came out onto the very open, very exposed balcony to address the public and watch the festivities as well! That would NEVER happen in the States! It was soooo much fun seeing the pride in the eyes of the locals - plus, everyone sang the songs...no one to proud for sing-a-longs! Afterwards, we took in the lovely views of the city from our hostel's terrace and practiced some dance moves ;) Before dark, I took a long walk to Rocodomo, a ROCK CLIMBING gym in Quito, but sadly missed the free climb hours.




That is actually the President, his family, and the cabinet!




Our scootering journey requires its own post, so until then, MISS AND LOVE my friends and family!