Monday, September 26, 2011

Quito, Ecuador

September 23rd - 26th

In contrast to our Colombian exit, our entry into Ecuador was fast and smooth - we got a "Bienvenidos" AND a smile! We boarded a bus, listened to a man with a boom box on his shoulder (literally) who was free-styling to the beat of a "50 Cent" song, and then realized the bus we were on was heading in the complete opposite direction of where we needs to be. After hopping off and setting a price with a taxi driver, we started heading to the "Old Town" area - we tried to show him a map and point to the exact corner, but he wasn't really feeling that idea. The conversation went a little like so...cabbie: "No, I don't know where that hostel is." Us: "Would you like to see a map?" Cabbie: "Yes! Let me see it!" I hold up the map and point to the general area. While not even glancing in the general direction of the map, he waves his hand towards me and says "no, I can't see it." Ohhhhhhh k. Us: "You know, the park in San Blas is fine." A few minutes later, the skies opened and traffic descended. As we were just sitting and waiting, admiring the way the taillights reflected through the huge raindrops on the windows, the taxi driver turns and says, "I think you should pay me the $5 for the ride and $5 for my time I'm losing while sitting in this traffic." "Oh, thanks for the offer, but seeing as the traffic is not our fault, nor is the fact you continue sitting here rather than choosing a different route, I think we will stick with the amount we agreed on." I should have anticipated something based on the silence that followed, but I was just proud that I was able to find those words in Spanish. I was feeling sassy. And I guess he sensed that, because, coupled with his lack of knowledge of the area, he literally told us to get out in the MIDDLE of a 4-lane underpass freeway. After the customary "are you serious" protests from the both of us, we decided he wasn't joking, nor would he have known where to go anyway. The cars weren't really an issue due to the standstill traffic, but as soon as we stepped foot outside the cab, we found ourselves wading in mid-calf deep, very cold, running water. We ran across different overpasses, seeking shelter under various vendors' umbrellas for a few minutes at a time. Not only are we two Americanas with extremely large, abnormal-looking baggage running around at night, but we are soaking wet in our short-sleeved shirts, shorts, and sandals in the 35-degree weather. So, looking rough attracts attention...usually, it is negative. However, in this case, it attracted the concern of a gentlemen getting bread who worked for a hostel up the road...he took pity on us, gave us his umbrella, and escorted us to the dorms for our inspection. It looked clean, and sometimes, you are just too exhausted to care. What a night!


Quito Viejo

We spent the day roaming around the city and exploring Quito's historic district, beginning with Plaza Grande. There was a group of individuals, whether it be city-sponsored or whatnot, who ran a number of different activities for children throughout the plaza - chalk-drawing, jump roping, face painting, bubble making, and rides on a multi-seat bike. Since making and blowing bubbles doesn't ever get old, Hannah and I wedged ourselves between a group of children surrounding a fountain full of bubble solution to partake in the fun! What a great program for children and the community in general!






Meandering around, we found ourselves in front of the main Basilica, which dominates the Old Town's skyline. We climbed a variety of staircases and ladders to reach the many different viewing areas the basilica had to offer. The views of the city went on for miles and miles in every direction. The clock and bell towers provided a unique antiquity that charmed us for quite a while - many photographs taken there!











After a "tortillos con verde" lunch, we continued meandering through the streets of Old Towne, to the soundtrack of various street performers playing folk-like style, windpipe arrangements of classic ballads, like "My Heart Will Go On." Even as an instrumental, that song still irritates me. As we strolled into Plaza San Francisco, there were two things that stood out: there were two large "teams" of pigeons resting atop buildings on opposing sides of the plaza that would take turns swan diving through the plaza and about 5 inches above every bystander trying to enjoy the day (not ok!) AND there was a huge "Discover Firefighting" event going on in the plaza. Though we were afraid something on the fire engine may have broken if we climbed on top of it and explored like all the other children, we did partake in the one event. We waited in a line to gear up (legit - oxygen tanks, masks, and the entire suit minus boots) and crawl through a pitch black maze full of smoke. Though we could see that it was a simple L-shaped maze from the outside, when you are in there, all reason goes out the window! Without realizing it, my respiratory rate suddenly became over 35 and when my tank prevented me from squeezing over an obstacle they'd placed in the maze's path, I started to panic a little - mainly because after I finally made it over the teetering tabletop, I realized my shoe hadn't made it with me...so then I had to do that bit TWICE! We both eventually made it, but came out with a whole new appreciation for the difficulty, technique, and bravery needed to do such a "job" - a very humbling experience, indeed. So, for all of those firefighters out there, and really anyone who has MADE it through fire school - you have my utmost respect (yeah Lizzard!) No day would be complete without gelato at sunset!






On Sunday, we started the day out well by eating what ended up being rice with 1/4 of an egg in a small tienda with roaches on the wall. When we saw them, we ate/stopped eating a little faster than we were before - however, we did have entertainment in the form of three drunk men (mind you, it is 8:30am) serenading the jukebox that was playing at maximum volume. However, once we got to El Ejido park, everything got better! We found a family renting out random bikes...garage sale purchases or products of various thefts maybe? Whatever it was, we embraced the low-riding, crooked bikes with no brakes and began riding with other locals in the middle of huge streets that officials had shut down for "ciclodia!" Now, it's cool already simply pretending you are a car, just on a bike, riding down the dotted line...but throw in two amazing parks with their respective flash-mob style, outdoor jazzercise classes and you have a REMARKABLE day! These people, of every age, shape, and size, were KILLING IT!! These dudes in spandex shorts and hi-tops created a series of extremely complicated steps that the masses seemed to pick up in one attempt! We watched for about 30 minutes before trying it out for ourselves - even the basic, "cool-down" steps were pretty darn complicated. Hannah and I only had to make fools of ourselves for about 2 minutes before a lady came by collecting money for the class - at which point we turned and exited semi-gracefully. The other park had a similar, less-complicated jazzercise class as well. Though I am not sure it was due to the fact we were there during "Semana de Movimento" (week of movement), or if this is how Quitoians roll, but the entire park looked like a movie set! Cheer teams were practicing, Dads were teaching sons to catch, girls were playing Ring-Around-the-Rosie, friends were playing futbol, old colleagues were playing rounds of tennis...at any moment, I was expecting a huge camera crew to roll trailing two actors or something! It was just...HAPPY! Elated and filled with an experimental spirit, Hannah and I tried the "Nica" style of riding - one person sitting side-saddle on the horizontal bar running from the seat to the handlebars while the other steers and pedals. This is probably quite difficult on bikes with brakes and that actually steer straight. Mission Ride Nica Style = Fail! All I remember is we ended up on the cement, tearing up from laughing so hard, and slowly becoming aware of how many others were laughing at us as well! After returning the bikes, we recovered at an outdoor cafe that was broadcasting a local futbol game. One of the most care-free, pure FUN days we've had on this entire trip!!

Monday brought a VERY cool "Changing of the Guards" at the Presidential Palace. First of all, the guards carry long bamboo sticks with little Ecuadorian flags on the end of them instead of guns. Plus, they SING!! There were various bands playing patriotic songs while the guards marched into position. Also, THE PRESIDENT himself, along with his family and all important members of his cabinet, came out onto the very open, very exposed balcony to address the public and watch the festivities as well! That would NEVER happen in the States! It was soooo much fun seeing the pride in the eyes of the locals - plus, everyone sang the songs...no one to proud for sing-a-longs! Afterwards, we took in the lovely views of the city from our hostel's terrace and practiced some dance moves ;) Before dark, I took a long walk to Rocodomo, a ROCK CLIMBING gym in Quito, but sadly missed the free climb hours.




That is actually the President, his family, and the cabinet!




Our scootering journey requires its own post, so until then, MISS AND LOVE my friends and family!

Friday, September 23, 2011

Medillin, Colombia

September 22nd - 23rd

The bus ride from Cartagena to Medellin was 13-plus hours...that is long enough for anyone, however, when the bus driver is cranky, it just makes everyone equally cranky...and of course, we were FREEZING UNNECESSARILY. PS - plastic bags as leg-warmers, not super effective but good in a bind. Also, even the weather outside is Sahara hot, never board a South American bus without ALL THE CLOTHES YOU OWN! Luckily, we had some entertainment in the form of an older woman that sat to the other side of Hannah - she would just do really random things that made us smile, like spend a solid 20 minutes picking tangerine peels out of the bottom of her purse, have no hesitations walking right on into the men's bathroom at our rest stop, and then returning to her seat...in the bus next to ours! It made us smile lots - and she did realize her mistake eventually. However, we paid for our entertainment...in the form of REVENGE! The lady for some reason transported a cooler full of dead fish. Well, the ride was a bit windy and bumpy...thus, all the fish juice had run out and ONTO OUR BACKPACKS! Yes, we smelled of rotten fish for THE ENTIRE metro ride to center city and the walk to our hostal. Basically, people moved for us...we could literally part crowds instantly. It was like a superpower... whose consequences included smelling like sewage run-off. After the lady who checked us into the hostal graciously excused herself (probably to dry heave) a few times, we headed up to our PRIVATE room and spent the rest of the morning washing and drying EVERYTHING! Not going to lie, the city urine smell was a welcome one compared to what we emitted! Hostel Odeon...you are our savior! Clean, bug free PRIVATE rooms with towels, a mini fridge, windows, and TV!! DONE!


After a couple hours of washing, Febreezing, and washing again, we heded our to explore the city. In the heart of Medellin sits Plaza Bolivar, littered with replicas of Botero statues leading to the doors of Museo de Antioquia, a large collection or various artwork spread out amongst its four floors. Also, it was the first time we were able to use our youth cards to get in for free, saving us $8000, which we later used to buy groceries for dinner! The fastest exhibits were Botero's (just not a fan) and the portraits collection from the 1600s. The greatest piece was an abstract/mixed media that had paintbrushes and parts of various musical instruments emerging out of the canvas background! Once our brains became overwhelmed with art knowledge, we walked around town and did what we do best...people-watch. Medellin is the perfect town for someone with ADD and a little bit of street smarts...at times, overstimulating but never dull. According to Lonely Planet, there was a bookstore with a decent collection of English books, so we of course checked it out. Usually LP doesn't mislead anyone too badly, but the get a thumbs down on this one - it was a woman sitting in front of a glass case containing about 22 books, 4 of which were in English - LAME! We gathered necessary veggies for the usual tomato/cucumber/avocado salad and ate it in our OWN room, while flipping channels until landing on...drumroll please..."Dawson's Creek!" Hannah and I apologize to everyone involved in our lives during the stage of our lives where we actually thought this was a good show...we are sorry.




Relaxing after a loooong art education!

The second day consisted of jamming to great tunes and seeking out the significance of the word "mona," which Hannah and I were getting called a lot. Though we assumed it had something to do with being gringas (doesn't it always?), we confirmed with the confused gentlemen at the tourist information booth. Diplomatically, he said "it means someone with lighter hair." "Neither of us has light-colored hair." "Well, it means maybe a fairer being..." "So, it means 'whitey?'" "Well...yes." "Thanks, that is what we thought, we just wanted to make sure." Pumped with our new-found knowledge, we headed to another nearby park and stumbled upon an amazing quartet of musicians who played Vallenato classics for the rather significant yet still intimate crowd of fans that had formed beneath the trees' scattered shade. Obviously, we joined and enjoyed the infectious harmonies and the perfect blend of musicality that three guitars and a cheese grater can provide! As they sang, one older gentleman in particular observed them, us, ans everyone else with the same mouth agape, half grin/half shocked expression - almost as though he was dumbfounded or at a loss for words...just for the ENTIRE morning. He made us smile lots! Luckily, you too can enjoy his awesomeness on the right in the picture below. Once someone in the crown made a comment about "monas" and "cameras," we decided that was a perfect opportunity to explore a little more. Of course, we circled back around to catch a few more tunes within about 30 minutes of leaving the park. This time, we admired the creativity of a child sitting across from us in the park...until we realized the device he was making served as a launcher of grass and other earth-like elements...at us! Oh Medellin, never a dull moment, and we thank you for that!



Getting to our flight was quite eventful, thanks to the ridiculous security for passengers leaving Colombia. They REALLY don't want you to bring ANYTHING, other than coffee, out of that country! So, start with two separate officials that checked your ticket validity prior to entering the "security" area! Next, the usual x-ray station where they avidly discouraged the removal of shoes. Walk through metal detector. Get a 360-degree hand-held wand search from another official. Pat down from a female officer. Then, further down to the station where the police (whose main job is to keep drugs in their country?) opened each carry-on and went through it all, one item at a time. The officer (PO1) started with our deflated playground ball - she removed it, smelled it, shook it, and flipped it. Next, she held out the bag of plastic utensils (which we have strategically collected from the good places) with a very questionable look on her face, paused for a diva moment, and moved on to the peanut butter. Oh gosh. She looked at it, shook it, opened it, and took a deep whiff of it...I literally thought she was going to sample it with her pinky finger. (In Spanish to the other officer - PO2 - who was doing...NOTHING) PO1: "They have large containers of this in America, my mom says." PO2: "What is it?" PO1: "Peanut butter." PO2: "What do you do with it?" Us: "Well, you can make sandwiches with that and marmalade, or simply put it on crackers..." PO2: Makes a confused/disgusted face, reaches over and grabs it from PO1, shakes it, opens it, smells it, hesitates, makes a semi-dry heave face, puts the lid back and hands it back to PO1! Ummm...WHAAAAAAAAAAAT? Are we on candid camera? Does this really happen? This is RIDICULOUS but simultaneously hysterical! Thankfully, we only had one person in the security line ahead of us...can you imagine how long this process would take if you even had 10 people ahead of you? Years...you would need to go back and get a VISA! After another 3-4 minutes of inspecting our food bag and making what began as "really?" looks that soon turned into more pitying looks with each collection of "probably useful sometime" things that she extracted (ie napkins, salt and pepper packets, little ice cream sample spoons, etc), she then moved on to our personal belonging bags. Status of PO2: still doing nothing, but now looks like he might be contemplating the uses of peanut butter...or maybe remembering that he left the stove on? The process went much the same for our backpacks. With my other most valuable items, I packed some individually-wrapped dark chocolates that my parents sent in a care package :) Well, apparently that looks suuuuppppeeeerrr sketch...thus, a repeat of the PB inspection. PO1 shook the Ziploc of chocolates, dragged her nose along the top of the Ziploc while sniffing intently, opened it, removed one chocolate, and repeated the exact same process. To lighten the mood a little, and to ensure her I wasn't trying to smuggle drugs out of her country, I asked her if she wanted one. PO1: "What kind of chocolate is it?" Me: "It's pretty dark...about 72%." PO1: "It's sweet?" Me: "Not really." PO1: Fake dry heave with the tongue out and everything, then throws the chocolate back in the Ziploc and moves onto the next item! During the rest of the search, she kept asking us what other countries we were visiting. A common theme we have discovered among Colombians...any other country outside of Colombia "es feo!" We would endulge her a little with conversation, but that ended once she kept saying, "ahh, Ecuador...es feo! Y Peru?...Es mas feo!" DANG LADY! HARSH! What usually quiets them down is when you ask if they have ever traveled to them, which is what I asked her...you will find that 93% of the time, the answer is no. Oh gosh, Colombia - you have some die-hard patriots in your country! Once we got past security, all was well. One of our in-flight options of entertainment was watching the "Beiber" episode of "Glee!" Not super important, but it reminded me of my lovely "Caucasian" friends...I miss you ladies!

Next up... QUITO, ECUADOR! Miss everyone from home...mucho!

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Cartagena, Colombia

September 19th - 22nd

After a long 22-plus hour bus ride, we got to Cartagena and took yet another bus into the center city. We walked for a good 20 minutes and finally found a hostel listed in our guidebook. More than tired, we threw our stuff into the room, went out to get food, and returned to relax. In my half-motived effort to check for chinches, I saw two or three crawling around the edge of the mattress' corner - I cannot be 100% certain they were in fact bedbugs, but I was 100% certain I didn't want to stay and find out in the morning! So as we went down to tell the man running the hostel that night why we were leaving, he became INSTANTLY defensive, dropped his pen, and said "You show me!" and STORMED up the stairs. Well, as we unfortunately have discovered, bedbugs don't really come when called. So, literally after about 5-7 seconds of us looking with out headlamps, he said (unless otherwise indicated, everything is in Spanish) "See, there are no bedbugs, THERE ARE NO BUGS!" He then RIPPED the sheets off the beds, and FLIPPED the mattresses over and half onto the floor while still screaming that there could never be bedbugs in his establishment. After about 5 more minutes of us trying to look for bedbugs while he would dive in and flip things around again, we walked down the stairs and waited for him to return our money. He did, but with a "you are very bad people to make up such lies and you better not tell ANYONE!" Well, if we didn't feel welcome before, we certainly feel comfortable to stay now!?! Holy gosh, what a way to end an already horrific 24 hours. Luckily, we chose a much nicer place and woke up the next morning, without bites or chinches - SCORE!



The next day was spent exploring, where among many other things, we found a huge, styrofoam container of freshly cut fruit for only C$2000 - the cheapest real food to be found in all of Colombia. We walked along a beach-like section of the city, took mandatory jumping pictures, and then headed to their Naval/Armed Forces monument, where Hannah tripped so high enough I could have taken another "jumping" picture. There was one lady near the beach who I thought was going to rob us, but really she just told us we would be robbed and to keep our bags close! Haha, thanks lady! Hannah and I meandered along the old fort walls of the city overlooking the ocean until the sun became hot enough to warrant a 10-minute "perusing" break in an air-conditioned bookstore. Again, no way in HECK we would ever spend $50 on a book! The colorful storefronts and cobblestoned streets provided us picturesque views for the remainder of the daylight. There was a rumba band playing on the fort walls during the night, giving us the perfect soundtrack for people-watching.







On Wednesday, we walked to the fantastic "Old Shoes" monument which I know my sister would have loved! Quite literally, a bronze sculpture of two huge, old shoes. There was another fort in that general direction of the city as well! Again, for our AC break, we headed into a little mall that had "escalators" - aka moving walkways at a tilted angle! We had SO much fun running up and down those guys - it's the little things! After completely cooling off in the refridgerated section of the mall's supermarket, we explored Las Bolvedas, a series of 20+ former dungeons-now-turned artisan shops. At one point, I look up and find Hannah being surrounded by some kids and giving me the wide-eyed "hey, come here" signal. When I joined them, I realized they were 5-6 students learning English privately with the gentleman that approached Hannah and asked her to speak to the students - this was their "get out and use it" day of English class. The ages ranged from 8-18...they were all quite shy, but the 18-year-old who spoke quite well did the majority of the talking. We asked the 15-year-old girl if she wanted to travel to another country and she said, "No, I do not want to travel because I love Colombia and I want to work in occupational health for Colombia!" I was quite impressed by the pride she had in her country and her patriotism, though I cannot quite empathize with her lack of interest to travel. The teacher's friend who owned one of the shops came out to chat with us as well. He spoke 5 languages and I capitalized on the opportunity of having a real English-speaker - I asked "What's up with all of the men calling and hissing at women like we are dogs?" After pulling the whole "it's our culture" thing, he said "It's just another way of being flirtaceous, like 'hey, you have beautiful eyes' or 'I like the way you walk!" HAHAHA! Apparently, they use that here! Best pickup line ever!






The evening consisted of running around and taking the typical "touristy" pictures after realizing our parents and family might want to see them! We headed back to the hostel to recharge, repack, and prepare for another long, cold bus ride. During the ride on the transporter bus, Hannah and I stood/sat on separate ends of the PACKED bus. When we finally exited together at the bus terminal, I asked Hannah, "soooo, what'd you think about?" She then told me about a whole alert/alarm system she created for us in the incident when one of us would be robbed and the other wasn't in the direct vicinity! Speechless, thinking "wow, that was a productive bus ride," Hannah then asked what I thought of during the ride. I responded, "things that open...you know, like doors, gates, hands, eyes, bags of chips...and metaphorically speaking, minds, hears, and ears." "Ohh, that's...fun." At least one us thinks of things that benefit us as a traveling duo! Thanks Hannah!



Sunday, September 18, 2011

Bogota, Colombia

September 12th - 18th

Oh...where to begin?

Luckily, the two short, less than 50 minutes flights to Bogota were uneventful! For the first time, we had someone MEETING us at the airport - one of the best things ever! However, at our connection in Medellin, we discovered the immgration officers here in Colombia are NO JOKE! Like a prepared traveler, I had not written down the contact number or contact number for Mauricio, the new member of our family (his sister married my Dad's nephew?) who we would be staying with in Bogota. When the immigration officer realized I had left the "Forseen Address" section of my customs card blank, she demanded I give her one by saying (literally), "If you don't have an address, you cannot enter my country, and I suggest you go ahead and leave!" Whaaaattt? Dang lady - no "Bienvenidos a Colombia?" I RAN over to Hannah 6 cubicles down and grabbed the South America guide book which had various hostel addresses listed - Hannah already had it in her hand, so she didn't have a very warm welcome or easy entry either! Thank goodness that appeased her. They should really use her for interrogation, she would truly excel - she did an excellent job scaring the crap out of me! Finally, we reached Bogota and after a little mix-up about international vs domestic arrival areas, we found Mauricio waiting for us with our names written out on a sheet of paper! We kinda felt like rock stars a little at that moment. He is just the nicest and sweetest gentleman on the planet! The night consisted of unpacking, eating AREPAS he made for us, sampling juice from "lulo" (a fruit only found in Colombia we were told), and decompressing! Thank goodness he speaks clearly and somewhat slowly, by Colombian standards, so we can actually understand him.


On the 13th, Mauricio escorted us to the city after a tamale breakfast (that's right, huge tamales at 7:30am) and showed us "must-sees according to a local" - guaranteed to be better than any guide book could offer! We walked along the streets near one of Bogota's many universities, which provided the youthful excitement that one can find on most all college campuses. The energy was set perfectly to the background of cobblestoned streets, vibrantly colored houses, and many wooden external balconies artfully littered with potted flowers and plants. Bogota sits in a valley between alarmingly steep but smooth mountains, so wherever you look, the green giants are always present...a HUGE yet humble reminder of where we are standing. We walked MANY streets in that area before descending into Plaza Bolivar, a vast open space of clean, concrete beauty, flanked on all four sides by very significant architechtural icons - the Primate Cathedral, the National Capital (Congress), Palace of Justice (Supreme Court), and Lievano Building (home of the Mayor). We could have spent HOURS there exploring and people-watching if it weren't for the obscene amounts of pigeons constantly flying at your head. We checked out a cloister-type compound that had just recently been restored which also provided information about some ongoing human rights projects in various areas of Colombia. Of course, we sampled the street sweets called "obleas," two circular wafers that contain the ingredients you choose - raspberry jam, dulce de leche, peanuts, coconut, etc - and ate a traditional lunch soup called "ajiaco," quite literally a little bit of everything. After walking a bit more and speaking with the eclectic locals, we headed back to the apartment to recoop before the FUTBOL game!! We went to see Equidad de Bogota play Libertad del Paraguay... an hour and a half before the game even started! Due to the fact this is a relatively young team (7-years old), we may or may not have been three of the first, ehhhhh, 20 people in the stadium - let's just say at that moment, the number of police and personnel working the event outnumbered the fans 15:1. Luckily, the die-hard fans soon came to set up their drumsets, brass instruments, and "buzzers" (the annoying things you heard during the games of the World Cup), thus providing the majority of our pre-game entertainment. The quality of play was leaps and bounds better than Guatemala (sorry Guat, but it's true), and the teams were pretty evenly matched, so it felt like a real game!




The next day, Hannah and I went explored some more and took the funicular up to Monserrate, a huge yet simple white church that sits atop one of the surrounding mountains and provides 360-degree views of the city! I am always amazed that people can build train cars and gondolas that can safely ascend or descend near-vertical terrain! Also, SUPER FUN to ride in, let's be honest! Bogota is HUGE - not only does it take up the entire valley area, but it creeps up the bottom third of almost every surrounding mountain! We spent a good amount of time just sitting and appreciating where we are and putting things in perspective. After coming back down the mountain on the gondola, we made our way to the Museo de Oro, a very informative, well-organized, and well-supplied museum about this history of gold and other earth metals. It is still quite difficult to believe any metal comes from the earth! On the way back, a man struck up conversation with Hannah and asked what we had done thus far in Bogota - she told him about the futbol game and he kept insisting it was a waste of time. After repeatedly defending the game and honestly telling him how much we enjoyed the game, the conversation ended when Hannah said in a very direct tone, "Well, we had fun and really enjoyed it!" I was so proud of her and the awkward silence that followed! In the evening, we headed to a cute Del Ray-ish style bookstore, which had books for $50 and above!! PS - NEVER buy a book in Columbia if you can avoid it! Actually, try not to buy ANYTHING in Colombia if you can avoid it because it is SOOO EXPENSIVE. We have already decided to cut our time in Colombia due to the fact 4 days is one week's worth of budget! As a thank you to Mauricio, we made a pasta dinner with a vegetable salad because, well, who can really mess that up? THESE KIDS! Somehow the pasta became rubbery, we burnt the pre-made sauce, AND none of the vegetables (cucumbers, tomatoes, and avacados) were ripe! Saaaaaad! Some thank you! Mauricio, being the kind and gracious man that he is, ate everything on his plate. We still feel bad about that...don't worry, we took him out for a real dinner before we left - at an actual restaurant!







You thought I was kidding when I said it was expensive?

The next few days were filled with laziness and failed attempts to organize our lives, except for LAUNDRY. As we were looking through Mauricio’s eclectic collection of books, he began recommending some…which we later discovered were “American classics”…that we had never heard of before. Pretty embarrassing a Colombian whose THIRD language is English knows more about American literature than we do! He also had an English idioms book…how many people have heard of the phrase “as awkward as a cow on a crutch?” I definitely hadn’t before, but now I use it as often as possible because the mental image makes me smile. We went to a richer area that had a very Old Towne vibe to walk around at night, looking at the various name-brand stores, expensive boutiques, and specialty restaurants…with the exception of a “Hooters?” Why does Bogota or ANY city for that matter need a Hooters? We did pass through the mall cinema and see a “Coming Soon” poster for the movie Mauricio had worked on with his professor, “Pequenas Voces,” which we went to see the following day in 3D!! The movie itself is a 3D animated collection of stories about the lives of certain countryside children told by the children in the face of troubling times. It was AMAZING! The animation is based on the drawings of the children as well, so although simplistic, they are very powerful. Even if you do not speak Spanish, you only have to watch it to FEEL EVERYTHING! I would definitely recommend the movie to anyone!


Things that may us jump for joy...clean laundry!


Hannah with the best arepa to date!



On the 17th, we took a bus ride through the mountains to Villa de Leyva, a beautiful, Spanish-influenced pueblo that is one of Mauricio’s favorite places in Colombia. Many of the white buildings had external wooden, flower-adorned balconies which gave the whole pueblo small splashes of color and lots of personality. Pretty sure my grandmother would run out of film in this town! We spent the entire late morning/early afternoon just walking around the town and taking in the beautiful people and architecture. Events in short: ate huge lunch (soup, rice, baked potato, salad, lentils…), watched a man weaving his own material very quickly and efficiently, got rejected by street dogs when they wouldn’t eat the bread I offered them, watched kids being kids, and just before boarding the bus home, we saw a bride and groom riding through the streets in a horse-drawn carriage to the church steps in the main square, where their friends and family awaited them with HUGE smiles and rose pedals. We took hundreds of pictures and Mauricio waited patiently without a word – oh Mauricio, sorry!





We convinced Mauricio to partake in the jumping pictures ritual!

The next day, we packed and took Mauricio to “Crepes and Waffles,” an AMAZING restaurant with, well, sweet and savory crepes, waffles, and a HUGE salad bar! FINALLY, a good salad! THANK YOU MAURICIO FOR A GREAT TIME!



After bittersweet goodbyes, we headed to the bus station for a LONG, 24-plus hour journey to Cartagena!

Gracias por Todos!


We WILL be seeing you again!




And Hannah, how would you sum up our time in Central America?