July 25th - 31st
Back to school at Guatemalensis in Xela on Monday where I met my teacher, Anna Lucia. Similar senses of humor are kinda crucial for these types of relationships - that, patience, and a decent understanding of charades and grand hand gestures, all of which she had. Once again, pretty intense conversation topics were discussed in the first few hours, mainly regarding reasons for Guatemala's current healthcare system and main areas of improvement (from the point of view of a single mother with a 22-month old son). How does that keep happening? What happened to that whole 'what's your favorite color' conversation? I might actually be able to contribute to that one! Afterwards, I met my Señora and she led me to her house so I could drop the bags off and grab some food before heading back for our first school outing. Nora, our school director, took Hannah, myself and the other student from Austin to San Cristobal, a neighboring pueblo that was hosting a carnival-type fair with man-propelled rides, food, games, local Mayan products and the works. At one point, we stopped to observe the "Baila de Conquistara" (about the Spanish invading Guatemala) - in theory, probably a very serious dance and tradition. In reality, however, it was a group of men dressed in very heavily decorated outfits doing roughly the same dance, but at very different times and speeds, allowing us to question whether drinking was involved prior to the big show. It began raining during the "show," so Hannah took shelter less than 5 yards away from us under a tarp. About four minute later, the "show" ended (thank goodness) and Hannah came to us with a puzzled look on her face while clutching her bag. "Someone cut a hole in my bag!" Sure enough, there was a significant linear cut through the side of her bag, which she realized when she looked down and saw her Spanish dictionary and workbook sticking out. Luckily, nothing was stolen...I guess the psuedo-thief realized, "sheeeeooooot, I already know Spanish!" Oh goodness. Consoled ourselves with rotillos (fried plantain with some black beans in the middle) and cotton candy...as one does. Once back in Xela, I walked back down my street only to realize I had NO IDEA where the house was exactly. Within about 29 seconds and after two failed attempts to open other doors, four neighbors were out with me asking very basic questions in attempt to help me...like, "what is the name of your school?" and "what is the name of your Señora?" Both very valid questions, yet no answers. So, they decided to go door-to-door. Luckily, door #1 was the correct one and the first words out of a neighbor's mouth was, "Do you know this lady? She didn't know your name at all." Hey thanks, because that entire situation wasn't embarrassing enough, but now it gets to be awkward for the next few days also...cheers.
Tuesday brought school with our Xelapan and tea during our break :) and a trip to Fuentes Georginas, a natural hot springs and sauna whose heat originates from the active volcano! After recalling the last time I sauna-ed it and the subsequent syncopal episode (and reading the fine print of my traveler's insurance), I decided to sit this one out. The time was spent learning chistes, or jokes, from Nora, who is always saying something to lighten the mood. Attended a "Massage for Travelers" class with Michelle, where we learned how to relieve neck tension. We (could have just been me) had a transient lapse in maturity and found the majority of the lesson somewhat hysterical...especially with references to PAC Man as a valid hand movement :) Afterwards, we met up with some of her friends had some hot chocolate in a rooftop terrace restaurant that overlooked Parque Central. It was lovely to experience the mood of the park without actually having to face the anxiety and potential danger of being in it after dark. Another girl and I shared a Q30 cab for safety purposes (still heeding caution Mom and Dad!), but running, the other option, is free. Just sayin'.
Is it possible that I am getting stupider as the week of school progresses? Maybe that's what Wednesdays are for...doubting your ability to speak any language! Seriously, at times Hannah and I feel that not only is our Spanish plateauing but our English is getting worse as well. Today, for instance, I forgot the word for "lobster" when I saw one. It usually takes the two of us to think through something to get it...so when we return, please be patient, as we will not be able to speak Spanish or English. But darn if we won't be AMAZING at charades! With those feelings, we skipped out on salsa lessons to study...and by study, I mean Hannah studied while I journaled. What makes anyone feel better? Chocobananas and good company. So, that is what we did with Michelle...stuff our faces with cheap chocobananas. Guatemala, we love you for many reasons, but these pieces of goodness are near the top of our list for sure.
On Thursday, my teacher did confirm that my Spanish was getting worse, to an extent. Haha. So we decided to break up the monotony with a little Spanish Scrabble...and a win for the gringa! After one of the bumpiest access roads in all of Xela (and that is saying quite a bit), we reached San Andres Xecul, a nearby pueblo known for it's insanely colorful churches. They didn't disappoint - it was an explosion of primary colors coming at you from every direction. Inside looked similar to most others - religious statues and relics, ornate altars, beggars hassling you because you're white, etc, etc. The town itself was absolutely gorgeous - the majority of the streets in the town were on 45-50 degree inclines, allowing for great views of Guatemala's western highlands. There was a smaller prayer church near the top of the town that we walked/hiked to that provided the best views..and the highest heart rate of the week! We were entertained on the walk down by a young boy holding a huge umbrella over himself and a very small girl dressed in her huipil and corte (traditional garb)...adorable! Later that night, we had all planned to meet and go to the advertised National Symphony Orchestra play at Teatro Municipal. So Nora, her son, and the three of us students walked all the way up there to be greeted by a group of about 15 other extranjeros who looked equally confused by the locked doors and absence of light in the theater windows. Apparently, the musicians were protesting against the difficulties they faced when crossing borders? Whaaaaaaat? Anyways, we then turned to movies as our new form of entertainment - watched a really good film about border crossing (theme of the night) called "Bajo La Misma Luna," and I probably understood about a quarter of what was said. Not bad!!
It is only customary that Bananagrams were played on the last day of school! Upon returning to the house for lunch, I was greeted by a Japanese woman who was a new student beginning the following week. She knew heap tons more Spanish than I do, but spoke it with a Japanese-like delivery? Nora called it Japonol! Lunch was kinda rough, as I was just repeatedly reminded by my Señora and her daughter of how much more Spanish the Japanese girl knew and how she spoke it markedly better than I did. Whomp whomp. To distract from my recently bruised ego, Rolando, Nora, and the three of us went bike riding through the farmlands that rest at the base of the volcano on the outskirts of Xela. Yep, we sure did. The tires were half flat before we left, but it became quite clear why once we turned onto the uneven cobblestone street outside of their house. The bike was also set on the easiest possible gear to accommodate the hilly terrain, so the entire ride I just kept hearing the music from the "Wizard of Oz" that plays as Auntie Em is riding her bike. Da nuh nuh nah nah naaaaah num, da nuh nuh nah nah naaaah num naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh! Definitely the best outing of the week thus far, as it provided the opportunity to truly see how life, mainly in the working realm, was for most Guatemalans in the Xela area. Plus the views we breathtaking! The soccer pitch in the middle of various crops made me smile the most! That night, we met up with Karen and shared stories about language school, home stays, and general life in Xela. She is hysterical and definitely was the perfect end to a great day!
Saturday brought the most exciting outing of the week...a hike up and around Volcan Santa Maria to get an amazingly clear view of the very active Volcan Santiaguito! As we slowly hiked up the steep terrain, we were passed by local farmers who made this hike every day to tend to their crops. Personally, I'd seriously think about a career change, but unfortunately, thar isn't an option here. Some passed us on horses, others wielding machetes and various farming tools passed us on foot. After climbing for a few hours, we rounded a corner on a slight ascent and were met simultaneously with a magnificently clear view of sharp, jagged mountain summits preceding Volcan Santiaguito's massive open crater and a loud, deep boom as it erupted right in front of us! The sound is similar to what I would imagine a gunshot underwater sounding like...that or when you percuss over someone's lung as they are mid-inspiration, only 321 times louder. We took in the beautiful scenery for about 30 minutes before heading back. About 100 meters into the walk back, we heard and extremely loud boom and turned to see a massive eruption and cloud formation that shot straight up into the air, looking very similar ton the famous atomic bomb photograph. Rolando told us smaller eruptions produce gaseous clouds that extend laterally, almost like a skirt being laid on the sides of the volcano; larger ones shoot straight into the sky, much like the one we RAN back to see. Ps, running is difficult anyways, but at 2700 meters, I really kinda suck at it. I felt like a wooly mammoth...moving with the same speed and "grace." It was pretty remarkable watching something that is so beautiful and destructive. On the hike back down, we stopped to plant 20 baby trees that Nora and Rolando had been harvesting since last years - their attempt to combat the deforestation that has been especially bad in the surrounding Xela area due to the increased need and use of firewood by indigenous families. Apparently, some farmer created a faster way to plant trees that involves making "seed balls" consisting of seeds, dirt, and clay, giving them time to harden, throwing them into the forest, and allowing natural rainfall to break them open and let them set into the ground. How fantastic is that?? You throw trees into the forest - whhaaaaaaa? The decent was quite peaceful, passing herders with flocks of sheep and families of machete-wielding children, as is the life in these mountains.
At night, Hannah and I played Bananagrams with Michelle...I love that this game has already been worth the extra weight and I've only been gone 30 days - pretty sure if I ever have to choose between Bananagrams or medical supplies, the banana is staying. Apparently Hannah and I aren't the only ones who have difficulty finding certain English words... "Is goud a word?" Our ultimate "rule" was 'if you can use it in a sentence, you can keep it!' After a little salsa intermission, we watched "Sin Nombre," an intense movie about a member of the MS-13 gang who ultimately helps a Honduran teenager cross the border into the US. Great movie to make you even more paranoid for the walk home...plus the fireworks that were randomly going off in the park didn't help much either.
Sunday was our "recoup from the week and prep for tomorrow's travels" day. Lazy morning, Xelapan of course, and visit to Parque Calavario, where a caravan of taxis decorated with balloons and streamers was following a fire engine adorned with a huge statue of Jesus on top. The security detail for Jesus, aka the guys with poles that would lift the telephone lines so the statue would go untouched, also pulled double duty and set of firecrackers right next to us. On our walk to Parque Central, there were two different marching bands that walked by on the street. One of bands was wearing a tight, white unitard with diagonal silver sequins on the top...now c'mon, who would do that to these poor kids? Unitard....white....really? Though tempted to follow them, we determined anything worth watching would go through the park. Sure enough there was a competition/parade of various marching bands, drill teams, and dance teams from all over Guatemala. Michelle, Hannah, and I sat and enjoyed the loud, colorful, and energetic display for about 2 hours before rounding out the evening with our favorite street food! We thought about buying dessert-type foods from a vendor but then decided against it when we saw her killing bees INTO the caramelized candies! No gracias! Gave Michelle the Guatemalan handshake goodbye and we each wished each other safe travels and we parted ways. Stay safe in Mexico!
On Monday, we head to the Lake! Hoping that everyone at home is doing well. You are missed very much and thought of frequently, that is for sure!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Monday, July 25, 2011
Xela
July 21st - 24th
Catching a chicken bus goes as follows....walk to bus terminal; ask people staring at you where to catch the bus to Chimaltenango; try and find the bright green and red one named "Alemana"; find it; ask the driver to signal you when it is your stop; ask a fellow passenger how much it normally costs to get to Chimaltenango so your gringa self doesn't get ripped off; ask money-collector dude for change when you hand him Q5 for a Q3 fare; roll your eyes when he says, "no, es Q5"; sit back and enjoy the evil eye money-collector man gives fellow passenger when you tell him "ello me dijo es solo Q3"; smile politely money-collector man reluctantly hands back Q2; ask a different passenger when to get off to change buses for Xela; freak out slightly and awkwardly attempt to dislodge your bag from between the seats while simultaneously bumping into others when the person you ask semi-screams "AHORITA!!"; hop off and look around in a very confused manner; smile as the man who screamed pokes his head out of the window yelling "mas arriba, al otro lado!"; cross a highway, quickly and with bags slapping us about; ask man standing with others which bus to catch for Xela; try and find humor in the situation as he points to one passing us and says, "como asi?"; thank the heavens above when a bus with ACTUAL SEATS with belts and air and everything shows up with a man yelling out the window "a Xela, a Xela"; feign sleeping to prevent nausea; laugh hysterically while watching Hannah attempt to journal as the bus sped over pothole-ridden and around sharp mountainside switchbacks, throwing her body against the window and into the other seat; get dropped off on the side of Pan-American Highway 1; play dodgecars, get distracted by a child selling plantain chips; load onto another chicken bus that played some stellarly awful musica; be minimally surprised but extremely amused when the driver came to an abrupt stop and the entire seat next to Hannah flew onto the floor; ask fellow passenger when to get off; discover that drivers' honking sometimes has a pattern and other times not - good-looking girl = honk, passing another vehicle = honk, warning to a man on a bike = honk, nice day = honk, restaurant they went to once = honk; exit too soon; catch a microbus to parque central; arrive in Xela proper having saved Q203.50 than the proposed price for direct transport! Booya!
Side note #1: If, before leaving for a very long trip, you are debating whether to buy a skirt that's slightly snug or one that's a bit loose, go with the former. I purchased the latter for "comfort," but was running across a crowded intersection before catching our last transfer bus when it just shimmied it's way all the way down to my ankles. Free shows are not ok, but losing your skirt I learned is yet one more reason people honk. Just saying, go with the slightly snug one.
First impression of Xela...much more of a Guatemalans' ciudad. Gothic architecture, less gringos, underground quirky and artsy vibe, great chill out cafes, excellent street food, pseudo-progressive with many community-oriented volunteering opportunities with eco/green organizations, and stronger sense of community and family. We sought refuge in El Cuartito, a great intimate cafe with great music and hot chocolate that was recommended to us via email by Michelle (who I knew of thanks to the one and only Ashley Curl)! While conjugating verbs, I heard "Audrey?" and looked up to see (and meet for the first time) Michelle. It is always nice to meet someone who has been where you are for a while and can steer you in the right direction (aka to sweet hangouts and community events and away from sketchy areas).
Side note #2: If you are in Xela, you should stay at The Black Cat as you can pick off the menu and choose any desayuno quieres!!! The panqueques are possibly the best I´ve ever had (obviously second to yours, if you have ever made me pancakes). Also, maybe don't get the French toast since is literally a piece of bread that is deep fried like KFC...just saying.
The general routine we have developed in Xela is stuff our faces with yummy free breakfast in the morning, explore through the early afternoon, and end in parque central to people-watch until sundown. Somewhere in there is the consumption of some platanos fritos from the ladies in the street. Given that as a template for our activities, I'll touch on some highlights...
Friday: Spoke with Mom and Dad on the phone! Visited a funky bookstore called Vrisa and purchased my first two books in Spanish, one being "El Principito" and the other a collection of short stories for children...yes, that is the level of my Spanish and I'm not ashamed. Hannah and I played the Spanish version of "I Spy" or "Yo Espio" in the park to help build our vocabulary. Good dinner with Michelle, we have a very similar sense of humor which always makes for good times. I can't quite identify what it is, but their "pizza" sauce tastes a little off...could be ketchup. Mini dance party with Hannah in between our bunks to "Sweet Disposition" before bed.
Saturday: Went to Mercado Democracia with Michelle to take part in the craziness that markets bring. Markets are like the watering holes of the human race. The senses are overwhelmed from the moment you get near it...crazy smells, more colors than you knew existed, textures never felt before, interesting and fresh flavors, and Spanish words/phrases we sure aren't taught in school! Since she lives here, Michelle did some serious shopping and bartering for a flat of 30 eggs, a head of broccoli, a crap ton of bananitas, a bolsita of limes, some tomatoes, and a pair of sweet Converse-style shoes. The greatest decision we made for the day was to have Michelle show us the ropes of everything while she was hauling all of those groceries...yeaaaahhhh. She was very gracious about it...our bad Mi! Amazingly delicious chocolate pancakes with raspberry sauce at El Cuartito... that's right, all we do is eat, so I have no doubt I'll be growing into that skirt of mine. The people-watching in the park wasn't much different than the previous days, except there were festivities happening in the park for the celebration of XelaPan´s (a dangerously addictive bakery on the corner) 25th Anniversary. What better way to commemorate the event than by making a 30-meter long cake while a marching band plays all the popular songs from American and Guatemalan radio. Plus, we met a whole bunch of characters while making a pseudo short film....a couple of older drunks, a shoeshiner, a couple, a cowboy, and a group of boys who will no doubt be the next generation of Menudo. Our first Guatemalan futbol game!! We learned many things....if you bring a drink with you, they'll empty it into a plastic bag, stick a straw in it and then you are kinda stuck holding it for the remainder; the Xela team is pretty awful; although they have the designated "super fans" that bring their own marching band and fireworks, the support that the majority of fans provide is pretty transient - a good play = "vamanos!! Pueden hacerlo!", a bad play 19 seconds later = "Beso mi culo, pinche puta! El burro sabe mas que tu!"; we missed both goals scored by Xela because we were distracted by more entertaining things like a bat that landed on the field and the boy selling candy and cigarrettes (so sad); there was a team wide fight on the field minutes before the end of the game that caused the ejections of two players and subsequently distracted Xela long enough for the other team to score in the last few seconds to tie the game; the borracho in front of us tried to throw a bolsita of gatorade at members of of the officiating staff - no only did he spill half of it on himself, but the bag got caught in the barbed wire; the verbal assault from the "fans" isn't only directed towards the players, but also the coaches, trainers, assistants, and benched players...they're impartial.
Sunday: Found a school by pure luck and chance...saw a sign above the locked door that said "For more information, go to this address up the street." We did and met Nora, el jefe, who was charismatic and seemed very passionate about what she was doing with her school. The school itself had a rock wall in the middle of it (I was in at that moment), a rooftop terrace and weekly events/outings in the community and surrounding pueblitos - Hannah and I felt really good about it and decided within about 3 minutes that Guatemalensis was the school for us. I Skyped with my family and saw my puppy! While journaling, the same group of Menudo boys passed by and distracted me enough by shouting "Andrey, Andrey!" to look up and give a little wave. That's right, Hannah and I have fans in Xela...just sayin'. Channeled my inner EBAL in the park while I was entertained by a ukelele player and a little girl who was dancing with reckless abandon...had a good chat with the mother who said, "estar una mama es bonita." It was a very honest moment and I thought immediately of my friend Claudia (hola mamita!). Hit up all the fun tiendas we had been wanting to check out including Artesenas Panaderia and Al-Natural. Met up with Michelle immediately after checking our mail, which was about 1 hour after the proposed time she sent us...yeah, email only is a difficult way to communicate sometimes. An older gentleman sitting near us responded to his friend that was approaching with a "hey, just hanging out with the gringos" (en Espanol). Hannah, mouth agape with disbelief, turns and looks at him...and his friend says, "I think maybe they understand us (en Espanol)." "Yep, we sure do." Oh Hannah - so classic. Tried some "atol de elote," a warm, thick corn beverage with a sprinkle of cinnamon and cooked corn kernels atop...one of those things that you just keep tasting because you can really never decide whether you like it or not. Then, Bananagrams!! Failed attempt to make their version of hot chocolate...our version was more a chunk of chocolate in the bottom of a cup full of somewhat brownish, lukewarm water. Don't be jealous.
Tomorrow we start language school otra vez. Though to a much lesser degree, I still get a little nervous before "the first day of school." Dork to the core and proud of it! Miss and love you all sooooooo much!!
Catching a chicken bus goes as follows....walk to bus terminal; ask people staring at you where to catch the bus to Chimaltenango; try and find the bright green and red one named "Alemana"; find it; ask the driver to signal you when it is your stop; ask a fellow passenger how much it normally costs to get to Chimaltenango so your gringa self doesn't get ripped off; ask money-collector dude for change when you hand him Q5 for a Q3 fare; roll your eyes when he says, "no, es Q5"; sit back and enjoy the evil eye money-collector man gives fellow passenger when you tell him "ello me dijo es solo Q3"; smile politely money-collector man reluctantly hands back Q2; ask a different passenger when to get off to change buses for Xela; freak out slightly and awkwardly attempt to dislodge your bag from between the seats while simultaneously bumping into others when the person you ask semi-screams "AHORITA!!"; hop off and look around in a very confused manner; smile as the man who screamed pokes his head out of the window yelling "mas arriba, al otro lado!"; cross a highway, quickly and with bags slapping us about; ask man standing with others which bus to catch for Xela; try and find humor in the situation as he points to one passing us and says, "como asi?"; thank the heavens above when a bus with ACTUAL SEATS with belts and air and everything shows up with a man yelling out the window "a Xela, a Xela"; feign sleeping to prevent nausea; laugh hysterically while watching Hannah attempt to journal as the bus sped over pothole-ridden and around sharp mountainside switchbacks, throwing her body against the window and into the other seat; get dropped off on the side of Pan-American Highway 1; play dodgecars, get distracted by a child selling plantain chips; load onto another chicken bus that played some stellarly awful musica; be minimally surprised but extremely amused when the driver came to an abrupt stop and the entire seat next to Hannah flew onto the floor; ask fellow passenger when to get off; discover that drivers' honking sometimes has a pattern and other times not - good-looking girl = honk, passing another vehicle = honk, warning to a man on a bike = honk, nice day = honk, restaurant they went to once = honk; exit too soon; catch a microbus to parque central; arrive in Xela proper having saved Q203.50 than the proposed price for direct transport! Booya!
Side note #1: If, before leaving for a very long trip, you are debating whether to buy a skirt that's slightly snug or one that's a bit loose, go with the former. I purchased the latter for "comfort," but was running across a crowded intersection before catching our last transfer bus when it just shimmied it's way all the way down to my ankles. Free shows are not ok, but losing your skirt I learned is yet one more reason people honk. Just saying, go with the slightly snug one.
First impression of Xela...much more of a Guatemalans' ciudad. Gothic architecture, less gringos, underground quirky and artsy vibe, great chill out cafes, excellent street food, pseudo-progressive with many community-oriented volunteering opportunities with eco/green organizations, and stronger sense of community and family. We sought refuge in El Cuartito, a great intimate cafe with great music and hot chocolate that was recommended to us via email by Michelle (who I knew of thanks to the one and only Ashley Curl)! While conjugating verbs, I heard "Audrey?" and looked up to see (and meet for the first time) Michelle. It is always nice to meet someone who has been where you are for a while and can steer you in the right direction (aka to sweet hangouts and community events and away from sketchy areas).
Side note #2: If you are in Xela, you should stay at The Black Cat as you can pick off the menu and choose any desayuno quieres!!! The panqueques are possibly the best I´ve ever had (obviously second to yours, if you have ever made me pancakes). Also, maybe don't get the French toast since is literally a piece of bread that is deep fried like KFC...just saying.
The general routine we have developed in Xela is stuff our faces with yummy free breakfast in the morning, explore through the early afternoon, and end in parque central to people-watch until sundown. Somewhere in there is the consumption of some platanos fritos from the ladies in the street. Given that as a template for our activities, I'll touch on some highlights...
Friday: Spoke with Mom and Dad on the phone! Visited a funky bookstore called Vrisa and purchased my first two books in Spanish, one being "El Principito" and the other a collection of short stories for children...yes, that is the level of my Spanish and I'm not ashamed. Hannah and I played the Spanish version of "I Spy" or "Yo Espio" in the park to help build our vocabulary. Good dinner with Michelle, we have a very similar sense of humor which always makes for good times. I can't quite identify what it is, but their "pizza" sauce tastes a little off...could be ketchup. Mini dance party with Hannah in between our bunks to "Sweet Disposition" before bed.
Saturday: Went to Mercado Democracia with Michelle to take part in the craziness that markets bring. Markets are like the watering holes of the human race. The senses are overwhelmed from the moment you get near it...crazy smells, more colors than you knew existed, textures never felt before, interesting and fresh flavors, and Spanish words/phrases we sure aren't taught in school! Since she lives here, Michelle did some serious shopping and bartering for a flat of 30 eggs, a head of broccoli, a crap ton of bananitas, a bolsita of limes, some tomatoes, and a pair of sweet Converse-style shoes. The greatest decision we made for the day was to have Michelle show us the ropes of everything while she was hauling all of those groceries...yeaaaahhhh. She was very gracious about it...our bad Mi! Amazingly delicious chocolate pancakes with raspberry sauce at El Cuartito... that's right, all we do is eat, so I have no doubt I'll be growing into that skirt of mine. The people-watching in the park wasn't much different than the previous days, except there were festivities happening in the park for the celebration of XelaPan´s (a dangerously addictive bakery on the corner) 25th Anniversary. What better way to commemorate the event than by making a 30-meter long cake while a marching band plays all the popular songs from American and Guatemalan radio. Plus, we met a whole bunch of characters while making a pseudo short film....a couple of older drunks, a shoeshiner, a couple, a cowboy, and a group of boys who will no doubt be the next generation of Menudo. Our first Guatemalan futbol game!! We learned many things....if you bring a drink with you, they'll empty it into a plastic bag, stick a straw in it and then you are kinda stuck holding it for the remainder; the Xela team is pretty awful; although they have the designated "super fans" that bring their own marching band and fireworks, the support that the majority of fans provide is pretty transient - a good play = "vamanos!! Pueden hacerlo!", a bad play 19 seconds later = "Beso mi culo, pinche puta! El burro sabe mas que tu!"; we missed both goals scored by Xela because we were distracted by more entertaining things like a bat that landed on the field and the boy selling candy and cigarrettes (so sad); there was a team wide fight on the field minutes before the end of the game that caused the ejections of two players and subsequently distracted Xela long enough for the other team to score in the last few seconds to tie the game; the borracho in front of us tried to throw a bolsita of gatorade at members of of the officiating staff - no only did he spill half of it on himself, but the bag got caught in the barbed wire; the verbal assault from the "fans" isn't only directed towards the players, but also the coaches, trainers, assistants, and benched players...they're impartial.
Sunday: Found a school by pure luck and chance...saw a sign above the locked door that said "For more information, go to this address up the street." We did and met Nora, el jefe, who was charismatic and seemed very passionate about what she was doing with her school. The school itself had a rock wall in the middle of it (I was in at that moment), a rooftop terrace and weekly events/outings in the community and surrounding pueblitos - Hannah and I felt really good about it and decided within about 3 minutes that Guatemalensis was the school for us. I Skyped with my family and saw my puppy! While journaling, the same group of Menudo boys passed by and distracted me enough by shouting "Andrey, Andrey!" to look up and give a little wave. That's right, Hannah and I have fans in Xela...just sayin'. Channeled my inner EBAL in the park while I was entertained by a ukelele player and a little girl who was dancing with reckless abandon...had a good chat with the mother who said, "estar una mama es bonita." It was a very honest moment and I thought immediately of my friend Claudia (hola mamita!). Hit up all the fun tiendas we had been wanting to check out including Artesenas Panaderia and Al-Natural. Met up with Michelle immediately after checking our mail, which was about 1 hour after the proposed time she sent us...yeah, email only is a difficult way to communicate sometimes. An older gentleman sitting near us responded to his friend that was approaching with a "hey, just hanging out with the gringos" (en Espanol). Hannah, mouth agape with disbelief, turns and looks at him...and his friend says, "I think maybe they understand us (en Espanol)." "Yep, we sure do." Oh Hannah - so classic. Tried some "atol de elote," a warm, thick corn beverage with a sprinkle of cinnamon and cooked corn kernels atop...one of those things that you just keep tasting because you can really never decide whether you like it or not. Then, Bananagrams!! Failed attempt to make their version of hot chocolate...our version was more a chunk of chocolate in the bottom of a cup full of somewhat brownish, lukewarm water. Don't be jealous.
Tomorrow we start language school otra vez. Though to a much lesser degree, I still get a little nervous before "the first day of school." Dork to the core and proud of it! Miss and love you all sooooooo much!!
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Tikal y Semuc Champey
July 17th - 20th
Oh goodness, where to begin...
On Sunday, Kirsty, Hannah, and I headed to Tikal from Flores. Hannah and I packed everything needed the night before so we would be able to sleep a little bit longer. Our bus was set to come at 5am, we were to be in front of Cafe Arquelogico at 4:55. In true us style, just for the mental image, Hannah rather calmly taps me on the shoulder and says, "Hey, it's 4:53." I spring out of bed while simultaneously changing into the clothes I laid out while Hannah did the same...there were little words exchanged but the ones that were seem vital at the time. At some point, Hannah was digging for something....I look over and see a toothbrush in hand. "No time for that, I have gum." Also, "deodorant!" We were SPRINTING up the mountain of a cobblestone street that we live on and down the other side with multiple trips along the way, but no true wipeout. As we round the corner at the bottom of the hill we see the bus do the same on the opposite end of the street. Kristy, who was staying in a hostel above the Cafe/pickup area had only just stepped outside 20 seconds before that. She informed us that she told the driver, "Oh, there are two more coming I believe." The guy slowly turns his head and points to the two gringas hauling ass down the street, waiving their Nalgene bottles franticly and says, "You mean those two?" Haha. In hindsight, what better way to start the day than a brisk jog and a huge dose of adrenalin.
The ride to Tikal was pretty uneventful, except for us swerving to avoid what I believed to be roadkill at the time...only to find out later, it was a man, sleeping off a bad night of rum, in the middle of the only road that leads from Flores to one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Latin America. Oh Guatemala.
Tikal is a HUGE collection of ancient Mayan ruins that rest in the middle of the Petén region of Guatemala that served as one of the largest and most populated "cities" in the Mayan world during the 3rd-7th century-ish. The ruler at the height of its popularity has a very prestigious name...I won't really use that one because it is historical and not nearly as fun as one of his aliases - Lord Chocolate. No chiste. As we walked in, being part of the guideless crew, we were a bit confused being led into the park by someone who appeared to be a guide. Turns out, they did us a solid and led us just beyond the armed guards out of sight and then said, "Okay, go now." And we did, in true human mimicking sheep-like style. One person made all the navigational decisions and everyone else followed.
Good thing too since the navigator led us to the grand plaza, where two temples face each other and there is an acropolis of sorts sitting behind them. As we approached the center, an eerie buzzing became louder and more prevalent until we saw the culprits....thousands of bees in the grass. Luckily, they were domesticated bees because they didn't seem to notice us at all. There were lots of noises once we reached the center of the Grand Plaza....howler monkeys, toucans, and this weird hawk-like bird that makes a sound similar to radio static interrupted by an old-school telephone ring. It made the experience that much more enchanting. Walking in, you are greeted with Temple I and Temple II, which sit opposite one another and simply command your attention...an acropolis of sorts nestles behind them. We ascended "stairs" (or in normal person English, a ladder) to the top of Tempe II, took in the views as we read about the significance of Tikal and each of its features specifically. So wild to read about something you are sitting on....seriously, it's not like "History of Our Sofa" is sitting on your bedside table...just sayin. After relishing the moment for a while, we took obligatory jumping pictures in attempts to pay respect to the Mayan God's and rulersnof the past....we thought they'd appreciate it maybe? We meandered into the woods and found the Central Acropolis, which I liked because you could literally see how it was functional as a living space and quarters. Then came Temple V...one of our favorites - you weren't alllowed to ascend it but its location and vibe made it seem that at any moment a brachiosaurus would round the corner and eat leaves from the tree we were standing under. And, in sticking with the theme, we followed signs to "The Lost World" and "The Seven Temples." Just amazing to think how much time and effort went into making ANY of these structures!
At one point in between ruins, we came across a group of howler monkeys playing chase and hide-n-go-seek around the fat trunk of the tree. Sooooo cool. They are basically humans...just with no fear of heights/falling and a little bit more hair. We literally watched them for 30 minutes and only stopped because we were distracted by a group of ants actually cutting a leaf into little bits to haul back to the mothership/mother mound? They are worker those ormigas. Sheesh. Nature is amazing! Then....Temple IV. From the base, it looked closed to the public due to active excavations. However, we found some wooden stairs leading up to the top. Near 360-degree panoramic views of the hundreds of miles of lowlands in Peten with scattered tops of ruins was what greeted us! The only thing that could have made that moment better would've been a hammock (or so I thought at the time). I was corrected as we were asked to be in a picture of a middle school group of students by their teacher...I asked, "Porque somos gringas?" He responded emphatically, "Si! Y porque hablan ingles y mi class esta aprendiendo ingles tambien." So, here we are again - sitting amongst Guatemalan tweens, on top of a Mayan ruin constructed in 200BC that overlooks the rest of the national park and most of the Peten region, while listening to JLo/Pitbull's "On the Floor" emerging from one girl's cell phone and posing for a photo being taken by their teacher/our new friend, Marco. Classic! Thank you Tikal for those memories.
After Tikal, we had our customary Sarita Choco-cone and had a little rest time before dinner with the Danes, two other girls in our Dos Mundos program, and Kirsty at Los Raices. Pretty sure I laughed to the point of crying on multiple occasions during that dinner. We compared our nursing programs and once again general healthcare with one of the Danish girls. They spoke about their daily lives - they get paid by the government to go to university, free and abundant healthcare for all, and higher salaries...of course, that all comes with the price of paying 70% taxes. Yikes! But, with all the amenities and services provided by the government, you don't really need much more money on top of that for daily living expenses. Yeaaaa, pretty sure America would never go for that! Crazy though, they are the "happiest" nation on earth. At one point, we were talking about dating and how some people create "bases" for that...always tying in that American pastime. One of the Danes, who is now working on learning her 4th language, got a little mixed up listening to the conversation and asked with the most bewildered face ever, "You have bases for sexual acts?!" Oh gosh, little language translation difficulties make me smile. Also, we were comparing travelers' insurances and realized ours may be more expensive because it covers transport of the body back to the States. Sophia said, "no, we would just bring them with us...'Don't mind my friend, he is nauseated so he is a little pale and really tired....he is just gonna sleep right up against the window so he won't be much of a bother." Morbid, but funny!
Before we left on Monday morning, Senora Gilma made us one last breakfast....because she is the cutest and kindest mamita ever! We said our goodbyes, which was quite sad...made worse by the fact she looked like she was going to cry at any moment. We have her address, so we hope to send her postcards along the way. After waiting an hour or so, we boarded a very warm and crowded shuttle van and headed out to Semuc Champey....after a stop for a tire, a stop for gas, an unloading and rearranging of gear/people, a stop to wait for someone they forgot (who never actually caught up with us), a stop for lunch, a stop for restroom usage, a stop to carry some random guy's 4 cases of liquor, and a stop to have a chat with an old friend. Three hours after the projected time of arrival, we arrived to a town called Lanquin....in the middle of nowhere. Apparently, Semuc Champey is simply the name of the huge national park, not an actual travel destination. A few "where are we?"s and a couple "soooooo"s later, we walked into town to grab some cena typico. The place we did stay in, the Zephyr Lodge, was set in the best possible location for that area, on a small hill resting between to huge valleys with dramatic rolling countryside surrounding you on all sides. Te rooms were made of thatched roofs, so the main rule of the entire lodge was "No smoking in the rooms." It's kinda sad they even had to say tat, but extremely helpful advice nonetheless.
Though we didn't necessarily have reservations for the pre-booked tour with a guide, we waited until they were loading up to ask if we could join....ps, best time to do that ever, because what guide is really going to turn down more money? So we loaded into the back of a 4WD pickup with bars on the back...very much exploiting ourselves as gringo cattle. Really...just like all the other cattle trucks we've passed on our travels thus far. The ride was quite fun...like a mini roller coaster with huge gaps in the railings that you jump and bounce over. Once we piled out of the truck bed upon arriving to Semuc Champey, we were told to remove our shoes, socks, shirt, and if wanted, pants as well. Now normally, one might question this very odd request...buuuut for whatever reason, we didn't because it is Guatemala and that's how they roll. A majority of our basic functioning in this country (as I'm sure will be true for many others) requires us to blindly trust the locals we ask about things...ie, "Buenos Señor, vamos a Xela - sabe cuando necesitamos cambiar los autobuses?" "AHORITA!!" AHHHH....OK!! So once shoeless and shirtless, we were handed candles and headed down into the caves. Yes, we purchased high-tech caving headlamps before leaving the States...and yes, we only had candles when it came down to it. Nice!
First thing one might notice when heading into the caves, other than "I'm in a CAVE!" is "hey, this water is pretty close to freezing and I'm only anpair of shorts and a bra away from being nekkid." Truth. But once beyond the point of sharp rocks digging into your feet, it was MAGICAL! And if you knew the depths of the water at all points, some great rock climbing opportunities up the stalactites. We alternated between swimming and walking across the sandy (and occasionally rock-ridden) floor, at times climbing up and over rock ridges, ascending and descending ladders placed to get to a new elevation or terrain. After squeezing our bodies through some tight spaces (never have I regretted all those platanos fritos more than at that moment), we reached our biggest challenge - haul your plantains-filled selves up a 15-20ft waterfall! No ladder option - was that an oversight in the tour planning? But Carlos, our fearless leader and guide, said what became the repeated phrase of the day..."esta seguro!" Oh, it's safe? Well, ok then! So here we are, pulling our soaking wet selves up a rope with minimal knots (secure-r handholds) through a WATERFALL!! The worst part is when you reach the chute, the super powerful section at the top of the waterfall where the force is crazy strong! It is extremely disorienting because all you are cognizant of is there is a super strong force counteracting your attempt to ascend it...and it is a little difficult to breathe, just saying. Finally, the two other guides at the top grab you when the rope ends and all is well...in the pool of water ahead wait the others, all clutching onto their candles and looking a bit shocked! So wild! And in comes the option to do a 8 meter jump into complete darkness...after Hannah and I saw a few faces of people who just jumped (sheer confusion and completely stunned), we decided we hadn't really done much people-watching, and this seemed like an excellent time to start!
We jokingly asked, "oh, so do we go back the same way?" "Por supuesto!" No es un chiste? Oh, alrighty then. So back we went...luckily, on the way down, there was a ladder option at the waterfall part, and we had no shame in taking it! There was a small detour that took us to a small hole, not much larger than my diameter - rushing water was coming up behind us and down through that hole, and we could barely hear Carlos on the other end (wherever it was). Apprehensively, after being told "let go," I hesitated. Then Carlos responded with what has now become a mantra for this trip and life in general, although initially I thought I was in a human version of "Finding Nemo." He yelled back, though barely audible to me, "LET GO...JUST LET GO...IT WILL BE OKAY." Those simple words have helped me immensely in many of my thoughts about the past, present, and future. So thank you Carlos.
Once out of the caves and back into the sun, we stopped shaking long enough to put shoes on to walk over the next adventure...where Hannah jumped off her first bridge into the rushing waters below us!! Her excitement for trying new things is infectious! More daring individuals dove, but we currently like the position and functionality of our cervical spines, so feet first was just fine. Lunchtime followed. On the way, we stopped to buy chocolate canela from a girl that lived nearby...the chocolate is legitimately ground cocoa beans, sugar, and cinnamon, so a little crumbly but geez does it pack a punch! I literally coughed after taking my first bite. Helen, a hysterical Brit, had been sticking with us since the caves and entertained us throughout lunch with her stories from past travels. After snacking, we hiked up a short but steep trail for about 25 minutes to reach El Mirador, a 180-degree vantage point of the park and aerial of the river and its pools below. The color of the water in each of the shallow pools is quite intoxicating...we stared many a minute at them. Then the best part, we spent an hour or so just swimming in all of them. In the last pool, again with Carlos' reassurance that "esta seguro," we slid down 15 feet or so of rock into the pool below...it felt much smoother than it looked (we realized while watching others do it). Definitely no way to do it gracefully, that is for sure. Shortly after, while chilling on a rock in the middle of the aqua-colored waters like mermaids, huge Howler monkeys started playing in the trees overhead! It was an "are you kidding me moment" that we sat and appreciated until mandated to leave. The ride back awarded us amazing views in the exceptional lighting of the afternoon, as we snagged the front positions of the cattle truck!
That night brought more exploring of the pueblito, a typical dinner, and CHOCOBANANAS!! Excellent way to end an amazing day! An early wakeup call for the shuttle that took us to Antigua. At some point, 30 minutes after we passed through Coban, the driver realized he'd forgotten someone, so he dumped us all out at a tienda on the side of the road. So, we all just waited, bought and consumed more bread, waited, walked up and down the dirt road, waited some more. Shout out to the amazingly nice woman who let me into her home to use the bathroom...gracias! I pretended to sleep throughout the entire trip because the driver was CRAZY and feigning sleep makes me less nauseated! Super windy roads + speeding + dramatic lane changes (lane being oncoming traffic) + jerky braking = vomit. Really random but shout out to the Dixie Chicks for getting me through that long ride. Rolling to Antigua felt very comfortable, as it has kinda become a home base of sorts for us here in Guatemala. The staff remembered us, so that was kinda fun! Clean sheets and new beds and laundry from our favorite man down the street of course made our day. Not to mention som crepes at Luna del Miel and great conversation about our purpose in life and on this trip specifically. "Invictus" and journaling capped the night off well. Next up, Xela.
Oh goodness, where to begin...
On Sunday, Kirsty, Hannah, and I headed to Tikal from Flores. Hannah and I packed everything needed the night before so we would be able to sleep a little bit longer. Our bus was set to come at 5am, we were to be in front of Cafe Arquelogico at 4:55. In true us style, just for the mental image, Hannah rather calmly taps me on the shoulder and says, "Hey, it's 4:53." I spring out of bed while simultaneously changing into the clothes I laid out while Hannah did the same...there were little words exchanged but the ones that were seem vital at the time. At some point, Hannah was digging for something....I look over and see a toothbrush in hand. "No time for that, I have gum." Also, "deodorant!" We were SPRINTING up the mountain of a cobblestone street that we live on and down the other side with multiple trips along the way, but no true wipeout. As we round the corner at the bottom of the hill we see the bus do the same on the opposite end of the street. Kristy, who was staying in a hostel above the Cafe/pickup area had only just stepped outside 20 seconds before that. She informed us that she told the driver, "Oh, there are two more coming I believe." The guy slowly turns his head and points to the two gringas hauling ass down the street, waiving their Nalgene bottles franticly and says, "You mean those two?" Haha. In hindsight, what better way to start the day than a brisk jog and a huge dose of adrenalin.
The ride to Tikal was pretty uneventful, except for us swerving to avoid what I believed to be roadkill at the time...only to find out later, it was a man, sleeping off a bad night of rum, in the middle of the only road that leads from Flores to one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Latin America. Oh Guatemala.
Tikal is a HUGE collection of ancient Mayan ruins that rest in the middle of the Petén region of Guatemala that served as one of the largest and most populated "cities" in the Mayan world during the 3rd-7th century-ish. The ruler at the height of its popularity has a very prestigious name...I won't really use that one because it is historical and not nearly as fun as one of his aliases - Lord Chocolate. No chiste. As we walked in, being part of the guideless crew, we were a bit confused being led into the park by someone who appeared to be a guide. Turns out, they did us a solid and led us just beyond the armed guards out of sight and then said, "Okay, go now." And we did, in true human mimicking sheep-like style. One person made all the navigational decisions and everyone else followed.
Good thing too since the navigator led us to the grand plaza, where two temples face each other and there is an acropolis of sorts sitting behind them. As we approached the center, an eerie buzzing became louder and more prevalent until we saw the culprits....thousands of bees in the grass. Luckily, they were domesticated bees because they didn't seem to notice us at all. There were lots of noises once we reached the center of the Grand Plaza....howler monkeys, toucans, and this weird hawk-like bird that makes a sound similar to radio static interrupted by an old-school telephone ring. It made the experience that much more enchanting. Walking in, you are greeted with Temple I and Temple II, which sit opposite one another and simply command your attention...an acropolis of sorts nestles behind them. We ascended "stairs" (or in normal person English, a ladder) to the top of Tempe II, took in the views as we read about the significance of Tikal and each of its features specifically. So wild to read about something you are sitting on....seriously, it's not like "History of Our Sofa" is sitting on your bedside table...just sayin. After relishing the moment for a while, we took obligatory jumping pictures in attempts to pay respect to the Mayan God's and rulersnof the past....we thought they'd appreciate it maybe? We meandered into the woods and found the Central Acropolis, which I liked because you could literally see how it was functional as a living space and quarters. Then came Temple V...one of our favorites - you weren't alllowed to ascend it but its location and vibe made it seem that at any moment a brachiosaurus would round the corner and eat leaves from the tree we were standing under. And, in sticking with the theme, we followed signs to "The Lost World" and "The Seven Temples." Just amazing to think how much time and effort went into making ANY of these structures!
At one point in between ruins, we came across a group of howler monkeys playing chase and hide-n-go-seek around the fat trunk of the tree. Sooooo cool. They are basically humans...just with no fear of heights/falling and a little bit more hair. We literally watched them for 30 minutes and only stopped because we were distracted by a group of ants actually cutting a leaf into little bits to haul back to the mothership/mother mound? They are worker those ormigas. Sheesh. Nature is amazing! Then....Temple IV. From the base, it looked closed to the public due to active excavations. However, we found some wooden stairs leading up to the top. Near 360-degree panoramic views of the hundreds of miles of lowlands in Peten with scattered tops of ruins was what greeted us! The only thing that could have made that moment better would've been a hammock (or so I thought at the time). I was corrected as we were asked to be in a picture of a middle school group of students by their teacher...I asked, "Porque somos gringas?" He responded emphatically, "Si! Y porque hablan ingles y mi class esta aprendiendo ingles tambien." So, here we are again - sitting amongst Guatemalan tweens, on top of a Mayan ruin constructed in 200BC that overlooks the rest of the national park and most of the Peten region, while listening to JLo/Pitbull's "On the Floor" emerging from one girl's cell phone and posing for a photo being taken by their teacher/our new friend, Marco. Classic! Thank you Tikal for those memories.
After Tikal, we had our customary Sarita Choco-cone and had a little rest time before dinner with the Danes, two other girls in our Dos Mundos program, and Kirsty at Los Raices. Pretty sure I laughed to the point of crying on multiple occasions during that dinner. We compared our nursing programs and once again general healthcare with one of the Danish girls. They spoke about their daily lives - they get paid by the government to go to university, free and abundant healthcare for all, and higher salaries...of course, that all comes with the price of paying 70% taxes. Yikes! But, with all the amenities and services provided by the government, you don't really need much more money on top of that for daily living expenses. Yeaaaa, pretty sure America would never go for that! Crazy though, they are the "happiest" nation on earth. At one point, we were talking about dating and how some people create "bases" for that...always tying in that American pastime. One of the Danes, who is now working on learning her 4th language, got a little mixed up listening to the conversation and asked with the most bewildered face ever, "You have bases for sexual acts?!" Oh gosh, little language translation difficulties make me smile. Also, we were comparing travelers' insurances and realized ours may be more expensive because it covers transport of the body back to the States. Sophia said, "no, we would just bring them with us...'Don't mind my friend, he is nauseated so he is a little pale and really tired....he is just gonna sleep right up against the window so he won't be much of a bother." Morbid, but funny!
Before we left on Monday morning, Senora Gilma made us one last breakfast....because she is the cutest and kindest mamita ever! We said our goodbyes, which was quite sad...made worse by the fact she looked like she was going to cry at any moment. We have her address, so we hope to send her postcards along the way. After waiting an hour or so, we boarded a very warm and crowded shuttle van and headed out to Semuc Champey....after a stop for a tire, a stop for gas, an unloading and rearranging of gear/people, a stop to wait for someone they forgot (who never actually caught up with us), a stop for lunch, a stop for restroom usage, a stop to carry some random guy's 4 cases of liquor, and a stop to have a chat with an old friend. Three hours after the projected time of arrival, we arrived to a town called Lanquin....in the middle of nowhere. Apparently, Semuc Champey is simply the name of the huge national park, not an actual travel destination. A few "where are we?"s and a couple "soooooo"s later, we walked into town to grab some cena typico. The place we did stay in, the Zephyr Lodge, was set in the best possible location for that area, on a small hill resting between to huge valleys with dramatic rolling countryside surrounding you on all sides. Te rooms were made of thatched roofs, so the main rule of the entire lodge was "No smoking in the rooms." It's kinda sad they even had to say tat, but extremely helpful advice nonetheless.
Though we didn't necessarily have reservations for the pre-booked tour with a guide, we waited until they were loading up to ask if we could join....ps, best time to do that ever, because what guide is really going to turn down more money? So we loaded into the back of a 4WD pickup with bars on the back...very much exploiting ourselves as gringo cattle. Really...just like all the other cattle trucks we've passed on our travels thus far. The ride was quite fun...like a mini roller coaster with huge gaps in the railings that you jump and bounce over. Once we piled out of the truck bed upon arriving to Semuc Champey, we were told to remove our shoes, socks, shirt, and if wanted, pants as well. Now normally, one might question this very odd request...buuuut for whatever reason, we didn't because it is Guatemala and that's how they roll. A majority of our basic functioning in this country (as I'm sure will be true for many others) requires us to blindly trust the locals we ask about things...ie, "Buenos Señor, vamos a Xela - sabe cuando necesitamos cambiar los autobuses?" "AHORITA!!" AHHHH....OK!! So once shoeless and shirtless, we were handed candles and headed down into the caves. Yes, we purchased high-tech caving headlamps before leaving the States...and yes, we only had candles when it came down to it. Nice!
First thing one might notice when heading into the caves, other than "I'm in a CAVE!" is "hey, this water is pretty close to freezing and I'm only anpair of shorts and a bra away from being nekkid." Truth. But once beyond the point of sharp rocks digging into your feet, it was MAGICAL! And if you knew the depths of the water at all points, some great rock climbing opportunities up the stalactites. We alternated between swimming and walking across the sandy (and occasionally rock-ridden) floor, at times climbing up and over rock ridges, ascending and descending ladders placed to get to a new elevation or terrain. After squeezing our bodies through some tight spaces (never have I regretted all those platanos fritos more than at that moment), we reached our biggest challenge - haul your plantains-filled selves up a 15-20ft waterfall! No ladder option - was that an oversight in the tour planning? But Carlos, our fearless leader and guide, said what became the repeated phrase of the day..."esta seguro!" Oh, it's safe? Well, ok then! So here we are, pulling our soaking wet selves up a rope with minimal knots (secure-r handholds) through a WATERFALL!! The worst part is when you reach the chute, the super powerful section at the top of the waterfall where the force is crazy strong! It is extremely disorienting because all you are cognizant of is there is a super strong force counteracting your attempt to ascend it...and it is a little difficult to breathe, just saying. Finally, the two other guides at the top grab you when the rope ends and all is well...in the pool of water ahead wait the others, all clutching onto their candles and looking a bit shocked! So wild! And in comes the option to do a 8 meter jump into complete darkness...after Hannah and I saw a few faces of people who just jumped (sheer confusion and completely stunned), we decided we hadn't really done much people-watching, and this seemed like an excellent time to start!
We jokingly asked, "oh, so do we go back the same way?" "Por supuesto!" No es un chiste? Oh, alrighty then. So back we went...luckily, on the way down, there was a ladder option at the waterfall part, and we had no shame in taking it! There was a small detour that took us to a small hole, not much larger than my diameter - rushing water was coming up behind us and down through that hole, and we could barely hear Carlos on the other end (wherever it was). Apprehensively, after being told "let go," I hesitated. Then Carlos responded with what has now become a mantra for this trip and life in general, although initially I thought I was in a human version of "Finding Nemo." He yelled back, though barely audible to me, "LET GO...JUST LET GO...IT WILL BE OKAY." Those simple words have helped me immensely in many of my thoughts about the past, present, and future. So thank you Carlos.
Once out of the caves and back into the sun, we stopped shaking long enough to put shoes on to walk over the next adventure...where Hannah jumped off her first bridge into the rushing waters below us!! Her excitement for trying new things is infectious! More daring individuals dove, but we currently like the position and functionality of our cervical spines, so feet first was just fine. Lunchtime followed. On the way, we stopped to buy chocolate canela from a girl that lived nearby...the chocolate is legitimately ground cocoa beans, sugar, and cinnamon, so a little crumbly but geez does it pack a punch! I literally coughed after taking my first bite. Helen, a hysterical Brit, had been sticking with us since the caves and entertained us throughout lunch with her stories from past travels. After snacking, we hiked up a short but steep trail for about 25 minutes to reach El Mirador, a 180-degree vantage point of the park and aerial of the river and its pools below. The color of the water in each of the shallow pools is quite intoxicating...we stared many a minute at them. Then the best part, we spent an hour or so just swimming in all of them. In the last pool, again with Carlos' reassurance that "esta seguro," we slid down 15 feet or so of rock into the pool below...it felt much smoother than it looked (we realized while watching others do it). Definitely no way to do it gracefully, that is for sure. Shortly after, while chilling on a rock in the middle of the aqua-colored waters like mermaids, huge Howler monkeys started playing in the trees overhead! It was an "are you kidding me moment" that we sat and appreciated until mandated to leave. The ride back awarded us amazing views in the exceptional lighting of the afternoon, as we snagged the front positions of the cattle truck!
That night brought more exploring of the pueblito, a typical dinner, and CHOCOBANANAS!! Excellent way to end an amazing day! An early wakeup call for the shuttle that took us to Antigua. At some point, 30 minutes after we passed through Coban, the driver realized he'd forgotten someone, so he dumped us all out at a tienda on the side of the road. So, we all just waited, bought and consumed more bread, waited, walked up and down the dirt road, waited some more. Shout out to the amazingly nice woman who let me into her home to use the bathroom...gracias! I pretended to sleep throughout the entire trip because the driver was CRAZY and feigning sleep makes me less nauseated! Super windy roads + speeding + dramatic lane changes (lane being oncoming traffic) + jerky braking = vomit. Really random but shout out to the Dixie Chicks for getting me through that long ride. Rolling to Antigua felt very comfortable, as it has kinda become a home base of sorts for us here in Guatemala. The staff remembered us, so that was kinda fun! Clean sheets and new beds and laundry from our favorite man down the street of course made our day. Not to mention som crepes at Luna del Miel and great conversation about our purpose in life and on this trip specifically. "Invictus" and journaling capped the night off well. Next up, Xela.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Flores
July 11th - 16th
On Monday, Hannah y yo started clases de Espanol a la Escuela de Dos Mundos. Manuel, mi maestro, is a very nice university student that speaks less English than I do Spanish. Although this goes right along with the whole immersion thing, when I actually need an explanation about something, I get a quizzical smile. Todo bien. I just feel that at some point an explanation regarding when to use imperfecto vs preterito would be extremely helpful...mainly so people I am speaking with no longer shake their heads in disappointment. We study one-on-one for 4 hours in the morning and spend the rest of the day trying to understand what we did during that time. He is very fascinated with the fact that Hannah and I are nurses and will randomly ask questions regarding blood or death while I am trying to conjugate verbs. It keeps me on my toes for sure...and I now have a greater knowledge for infrequently used verbs like "to lose consciousness," "to drown," "to bleed out," and "to die." At the very least, I can use it to impress in day-to-day conversation... like, "Enjoy your swim in the lake, also do not drown!" Estoy aprendiendo.
Monday marked another milestone for us as well - our first ride in a tuk-tuk!! These little rickshaw, three-wheeled little beauties of transportation are incredibly practical and cheap...two of my favorite words. They have some version in almost every country, I believe... it would be like a motorized version of the pedi-cabs that circle around NYC. So fun! We rode to the "Maxi Bodega," the Guatemalan version of Target or some all-encompassing store... except, if you didn't catch this already, Guatemalan. All I know is that, in sticking with our amazing diet, we bought the tie-died marshmallows that we grew so fond of in Pacaya.
During our afternoon study time, we get to enjoy the cacophony of musical sadness that occurs between 3-6pm from the students in the school next door - beginners attempting to play their respective instruments, be it the clarinet, flute, saxophone, violin or recorder. Yes, that's right, I said recorder. It kinda sounds as though cats of all ages are being thrown from the roof. So if any of you have ever wanted to torture someone, just let me know and I will make you a recording. The rest of the day is spent studying, exploring, writing, or attempting to conversate with our Señora over a meal. Typical meals thus far: Corn Flakes y pan con jugo naranja, sopa con papas y zanahorias, y frijoles con queso y platanos. Nom nom.
On Tuesday, Manuel brought his "Learning English" textbook in so we could go through it and see if there was anything I didn't know how to say in Spanish. It looked like a pre-schooler's book, with pictures of planes and cars with their name underneath, a picture of Denzel Washington with "actor" underneath, and pictures of various articles of clothing with their respective title. Here I am, making all this progress and then I realized this must be exactly like my book looks like to him...saaaad. For dinner, we had empanadas de "sixinche" or "orejas de arboles," crazy mushrooms that look like ears that when cooked well taste exactly like meat! Although they tasted amazing, I did write in my journal "if this is my last entry, it was the mushrooms!...just in case.
The themes I keep landing on for discussion topics aren't really appropriate for my knowledge level of the Spanish language. Somehow, I usually end up discussing religion, politics, and spiritual history. Umm....que? Those are things I try to steer clear of in English conversations, much less Spanish. Yeesh! I figured since I always wandered into these types of conversations, I should read up. Talk about depressing...I basically learned that Guatemala has yet to see a President that isn't corrupt, doesn't launder/steal money, doesn't oppress the citizens or make major private money-making deals at the expense of the general public. From my reading and from talking with Senora y Manuel, it sounds as though huge political platform points we see in the US do not really exist here - no one has addressed the huge financial gap in classes, lack of education opportunities for the lower classes, minimal health care, and other very basic human rights. The Guatemalans we've met so far are resilient people...it would be insanely difficult to remain positive in light of the seemingly hopeless situation they have had for hundreds of years. Yet, they are strong, proud, and hopeful people amongst it all.
Thursday brought us new friends... Alvaro, a Salvadorian who lived in California for some time and has now relocated to Flores, is a very nice gentleman whose concrete understanding of both languages has cleared up some of the many questions we have about Spanish grammar. Although nuestros maestros have been instrumental in our learning the basics, their explanations of certain things (in Spanish) really don't clear things up for us. Rather, we are more inclined to say "nevermind" and move on (if possible). Alvaro has helped us to understand concrete basics like how to ask someone respectfully to repeat something said more slowly...crucial! We also had the distinct honor of visiting an orphanage of young girls (ages 3-16 I would guess) in nearby San Benito. We were immediately embraced with hugs and kisses from most of the girls and quickly organized a game of futbol. It resembled more of the kindergarden "pack ball" game, where there is only a clump of people running around together and you cannot actually ever see a ball. Yep, that was it. So much fun! After enough of the girls had dispersed to exercise other forms of entertainment, I wandered upon a small group of five that had broken off to practice their self-choreographed dances to various pop songs. If they had "Entonces, Piensa Que Se Puede Bailar," one of those girls would be on there in a few years for sure! Also, did we all have the short attention span and never-ending energy combination when we were younger?
Friday brought one of the best days thus far! Sadly, I learned that I had been calling mi maestro the wrong name the entire week!! It is Daniel, not Manuel! Ahhh, how rude and embarrasing! Luckily, I found out in time before I him wrote a thank you letter and put my mistake in writing. My first letter in Spanish! Super exciting!! My last day of class was with Wendy, a hip and chic 19-year old with whom I was able to hold a conversation. We shared various stories and spoke in depth about various types of music. At the end of one week of classes, I can truly say my Spanish has improved greatly; though, now Hannah and I feel we need a week to practice all the tenses we have learned in daily conversations before we cram any more information into our brains.
After class on Friday, we took a lancha, a small, wooden, motorized boat to La Playita, an area or clearer waters and thatched-roof huts on the lake that surrounds Flores. Our lancha driver, Victor, I have officially claimed as our Guatemalan abuelito. He is so kind, gentile, and a great historian of Flores and surrounding areas. He told us stories about the Mayan origins of many natural elements, of life in Santa Benito, and of his own life. He waited in the lancha while Hannah and I studies Spanish on the docks and later swan to ensure we were safe and had a ride back. When were in the water, you could make a 360-degree turn and physically see five different skies. It was storming across from us, cirrus clouds to the right, cumulonimbus clouds to the left, and cumulus clouds floated by above us. How relaxing! When returned to Flores, we walked into a block-party type fiesta where families were meandering through an aisle of neighbors selling various traditional foods and postres (pastel as they are referred to in Guatemala) to the beat of classic Latino canziones. The best part was that Hannah and I were actually able to recognize most dishes in both their Mayan and Latino names, thanks to our Señora's amazing cooking!! A small victory but one nonetheless! After dinner, we invited our Señora to come to the fiesta...initially, we thought we made a mistake inviting her because she had her fingers in her ears due to the loud music and was giving the evil eye to all who passed in motorized vehicles. Within seconds of finding a place to sit near the water and away from the speakers, she was having a blast people-watching, educating us about traditions, and greeting fellow neighbors who seemed surprised she was out! Classic!
After a "best out of 10" game of rock, paper, scissors (or piedra, papel, tijeras rather), we decided to walk around a bit before retiring for the night. Today is Saturday, and on the agenda is a huge list of nothing! Errands and bookings will get done for sure, but beyond that, we will walk around and practice Spanish with friends of old and new.
Miss everyone and hope all is well! You are thought of every day and it brings a smile to my face :)
On Monday, Hannah y yo started clases de Espanol a la Escuela de Dos Mundos. Manuel, mi maestro, is a very nice university student that speaks less English than I do Spanish. Although this goes right along with the whole immersion thing, when I actually need an explanation about something, I get a quizzical smile. Todo bien. I just feel that at some point an explanation regarding when to use imperfecto vs preterito would be extremely helpful...mainly so people I am speaking with no longer shake their heads in disappointment. We study one-on-one for 4 hours in the morning and spend the rest of the day trying to understand what we did during that time. He is very fascinated with the fact that Hannah and I are nurses and will randomly ask questions regarding blood or death while I am trying to conjugate verbs. It keeps me on my toes for sure...and I now have a greater knowledge for infrequently used verbs like "to lose consciousness," "to drown," "to bleed out," and "to die." At the very least, I can use it to impress in day-to-day conversation... like, "Enjoy your swim in the lake, also do not drown!" Estoy aprendiendo.
Monday marked another milestone for us as well - our first ride in a tuk-tuk!! These little rickshaw, three-wheeled little beauties of transportation are incredibly practical and cheap...two of my favorite words. They have some version in almost every country, I believe... it would be like a motorized version of the pedi-cabs that circle around NYC. So fun! We rode to the "Maxi Bodega," the Guatemalan version of Target or some all-encompassing store... except, if you didn't catch this already, Guatemalan. All I know is that, in sticking with our amazing diet, we bought the tie-died marshmallows that we grew so fond of in Pacaya.
During our afternoon study time, we get to enjoy the cacophony of musical sadness that occurs between 3-6pm from the students in the school next door - beginners attempting to play their respective instruments, be it the clarinet, flute, saxophone, violin or recorder. Yes, that's right, I said recorder. It kinda sounds as though cats of all ages are being thrown from the roof. So if any of you have ever wanted to torture someone, just let me know and I will make you a recording. The rest of the day is spent studying, exploring, writing, or attempting to conversate with our Señora over a meal. Typical meals thus far: Corn Flakes y pan con jugo naranja, sopa con papas y zanahorias, y frijoles con queso y platanos. Nom nom.
On Tuesday, Manuel brought his "Learning English" textbook in so we could go through it and see if there was anything I didn't know how to say in Spanish. It looked like a pre-schooler's book, with pictures of planes and cars with their name underneath, a picture of Denzel Washington with "actor" underneath, and pictures of various articles of clothing with their respective title. Here I am, making all this progress and then I realized this must be exactly like my book looks like to him...saaaad. For dinner, we had empanadas de "sixinche" or "orejas de arboles," crazy mushrooms that look like ears that when cooked well taste exactly like meat! Although they tasted amazing, I did write in my journal "if this is my last entry, it was the mushrooms!...just in case.
The themes I keep landing on for discussion topics aren't really appropriate for my knowledge level of the Spanish language. Somehow, I usually end up discussing religion, politics, and spiritual history. Umm....que? Those are things I try to steer clear of in English conversations, much less Spanish. Yeesh! I figured since I always wandered into these types of conversations, I should read up. Talk about depressing...I basically learned that Guatemala has yet to see a President that isn't corrupt, doesn't launder/steal money, doesn't oppress the citizens or make major private money-making deals at the expense of the general public. From my reading and from talking with Senora y Manuel, it sounds as though huge political platform points we see in the US do not really exist here - no one has addressed the huge financial gap in classes, lack of education opportunities for the lower classes, minimal health care, and other very basic human rights. The Guatemalans we've met so far are resilient people...it would be insanely difficult to remain positive in light of the seemingly hopeless situation they have had for hundreds of years. Yet, they are strong, proud, and hopeful people amongst it all.
Thursday brought us new friends... Alvaro, a Salvadorian who lived in California for some time and has now relocated to Flores, is a very nice gentleman whose concrete understanding of both languages has cleared up some of the many questions we have about Spanish grammar. Although nuestros maestros have been instrumental in our learning the basics, their explanations of certain things (in Spanish) really don't clear things up for us. Rather, we are more inclined to say "nevermind" and move on (if possible). Alvaro has helped us to understand concrete basics like how to ask someone respectfully to repeat something said more slowly...crucial! We also had the distinct honor of visiting an orphanage of young girls (ages 3-16 I would guess) in nearby San Benito. We were immediately embraced with hugs and kisses from most of the girls and quickly organized a game of futbol. It resembled more of the kindergarden "pack ball" game, where there is only a clump of people running around together and you cannot actually ever see a ball. Yep, that was it. So much fun! After enough of the girls had dispersed to exercise other forms of entertainment, I wandered upon a small group of five that had broken off to practice their self-choreographed dances to various pop songs. If they had "Entonces, Piensa Que Se Puede Bailar," one of those girls would be on there in a few years for sure! Also, did we all have the short attention span and never-ending energy combination when we were younger?
Friday brought one of the best days thus far! Sadly, I learned that I had been calling mi maestro the wrong name the entire week!! It is Daniel, not Manuel! Ahhh, how rude and embarrasing! Luckily, I found out in time before I him wrote a thank you letter and put my mistake in writing. My first letter in Spanish! Super exciting!! My last day of class was with Wendy, a hip and chic 19-year old with whom I was able to hold a conversation. We shared various stories and spoke in depth about various types of music. At the end of one week of classes, I can truly say my Spanish has improved greatly; though, now Hannah and I feel we need a week to practice all the tenses we have learned in daily conversations before we cram any more information into our brains.
After class on Friday, we took a lancha, a small, wooden, motorized boat to La Playita, an area or clearer waters and thatched-roof huts on the lake that surrounds Flores. Our lancha driver, Victor, I have officially claimed as our Guatemalan abuelito. He is so kind, gentile, and a great historian of Flores and surrounding areas. He told us stories about the Mayan origins of many natural elements, of life in Santa Benito, and of his own life. He waited in the lancha while Hannah and I studies Spanish on the docks and later swan to ensure we were safe and had a ride back. When were in the water, you could make a 360-degree turn and physically see five different skies. It was storming across from us, cirrus clouds to the right, cumulonimbus clouds to the left, and cumulus clouds floated by above us. How relaxing! When returned to Flores, we walked into a block-party type fiesta where families were meandering through an aisle of neighbors selling various traditional foods and postres (pastel as they are referred to in Guatemala) to the beat of classic Latino canziones. The best part was that Hannah and I were actually able to recognize most dishes in both their Mayan and Latino names, thanks to our Señora's amazing cooking!! A small victory but one nonetheless! After dinner, we invited our Señora to come to the fiesta...initially, we thought we made a mistake inviting her because she had her fingers in her ears due to the loud music and was giving the evil eye to all who passed in motorized vehicles. Within seconds of finding a place to sit near the water and away from the speakers, she was having a blast people-watching, educating us about traditions, and greeting fellow neighbors who seemed surprised she was out! Classic!
After a "best out of 10" game of rock, paper, scissors (or piedra, papel, tijeras rather), we decided to walk around a bit before retiring for the night. Today is Saturday, and on the agenda is a huge list of nothing! Errands and bookings will get done for sure, but beyond that, we will walk around and practice Spanish with friends of old and new.
Miss everyone and hope all is well! You are thought of every day and it brings a smile to my face :)
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Pacaya, Amigas, y Mas
July 6th - 10th
On Wednesday, another traveler named Allison from Vancouver invited us to check out La Mercado de Artisanes on the main road in town. We had some good conversation comparing different ways of life in Australia, Canada, and the States. We then sauntered through the market, looking at the various colorful garmets and accessories. Guatemalans are very proud people, I have noticed. In most of the markets, vendors have 4-6 feet of space in front of their stand, but boy do they care about them! Almost all of the vendors at some point were sweeping their 23 cobblestones and then mopping them for the best possible presentation possible. I can tell you for a fact their key demographic (tourists with a fascination for momentos and more money than they know what to do with) will rarely if at all take note of the cleanliness of the stones in front of a tienda full of colorful goods...but they care and I love that!
Hannah and I are realizing our diet is pretty much as healthy as you can get! The hostel- provided breakfast (usually one egg, a piece of bread, and either beans or pineapple) starts the day out well...meal 2, if we remember it, is usually a chocolate-dipped, single scoop cappuccino waffle cone from Sarita (because it's scrumptious and only $1) ...meal 3 we usually remember right before going to bed, so that is something on hand (lately 4 Ritz crackers). Based on the "you are what you eat" mantra, we are soooo happy!
On Thursday, Allison, Hannah, and I headed on a hike up to Santiago del Cruz. Our mamita gave us perfect directions that we of course were confused by...fast forward 30 minutes and 5 other direction-giving individuals later and we reached the bottom of a insanely steep cobblestone street leading up to more rural-like housing. By steep I mean easily 40-45 degrees. We continued on that for a good 20 minutes, passing a basketball court that gets my vote for "Most Colors Used in a Sporting Field/Venue." At the top, there was a small statue and open field...but no cross. Many jumping pictures were taken regardless because, well, why not? A group of military cadets had just finished running up the near-vertical road and managed to muster up enough energy to applaud us in our self-timed jumping endeavors. With the help of local law enforcement (conveniently located almost anywhere a silly foreigner could wander), we were pointed in the right direction...just down from where we were. La Cruz is simply the best physical representation/symbol of the general spiritual and religious beliefs the people of Guatemala possess. I have yet to walk into any establishment that does not have at least one sign saying "Dios bendiga esta casa/negocio y quien la habita." After helping another couple take jumping photos, we headed back down.
In going with the "Why Not" theme of activities, Hannah and I decided to take a beginners salsa class. We learned the bare basics before a fellow gringa walked in, asked how it was going to the instruction, and before we knew it was performing the male steps to the dance opposite one of us. Just saying, pretty awkward. Jersey (I'm sure that wasn't her name) and our instructor then gave us a one song-long example of what salsa looks like when done with more than 5 basic steps. They killed it! We didn't know what happened, but it was quality, near-competition grade entertainment for sure. We were almost there ;)
To negate any calories we may have burned from basic-stepping our salsa behinds off, Allison joined us for another choco cone from Sarita's...it only seemed appropriate since she was part of our huge face-stuffing fest at Ronny's Tacos earlier that day. We went grocery stopping in hopes to not spend so much money at restaurants. Turns out, in Guatemala, you can get a liter of rum that comes with a bag of chips and 1.5L of Pepsi for a few Quetzals cheaper than a box of cereal....just sayin'. The pairings of free stuff had to be my favorite - I mean, who wouldn't want a bag of pasta sauce when they buy their orange juice?
On Friday, Hannah and I embarked on our Volcan Pacaya hiking adventure with 12 other people from various hostels in Antigua. 2 Londoners got in the van after being picked up from a different UmmaGumma and immediately continued talking about these "weird bites" they had - we felt it our duty to drop the knowledge with great pride, confidence, and embarrassment. Once at the base of the Volcan, our van was surrounded by 5 horsemen...had we not been in a van, I would have sworn we were extras on the Pony Express. It turns out they were there to prey on the weak, the lazy, and the out of shape. As you slowly ascend the trail at a 35-45-degree angle, these caballeros say things like "this is Candy - she is very sweet, come ride her and actually enjoy this for only Q100." They followed us halfway, just beyond a very steep shortcut- I assume they figure if you didn't have a coronary on that bit, you'll make it. Momentarily, I thought I may be wheezing and have been an undiagnosed asthmatic this whole time... but I then realized that was the sound of one who is out of shape and plans her day around choco cones. Once at the top, I felt like we were in Mordor...there was molten rock everywhere around us and steam emerging from the cracks and crevasses on the volcanic floor. Two other Londoners came prepared with marshmallows - let me tell you, if you want to really throw an amazing Smores party, just pop on over and set up on the nearest active volcano near you. THE most perfectly roasted marshmallow I've ever had. Lava...who knew? The perfect roaster and personal sauna. Also, note to all other marshmallow manufacturers... if you make them one color on the inside and a different on the outside, people will choose yours! We weren't able to go all the way to the top and into the crater since it last erupted one year prior....they gave some lame excuse like "blah blah blah your safety....blah blah you could die." Once all of the ominous fog/steam cleared some, our location rendered some amazing views of the other two major volcanoes in the area - Fuego y Acetenango. We actually saw Fuego erupt three times while we were in sight of it - little Mario Brothers-esque mushroom-shaped clouds of smoke would form at its peak. Once we all thought all the climbing had taken place, our guide took us up a 45-50 degree (sometimes I embellish, I admit that, but I got a confirmation from Hannah on this one) path that led to even greater views and brought us to an almost even level with the crater. Great weather, sights, jumping pictures, and downhill hiking towards the end of the morning rounded out the experience perfectly. **Side note: "Un Techo Para Mi Pais" (A Roof for My Country) is a really great company that sells beautifully hand-crafted jewelry and other products that use actual molten lava from Pacay in their designs - check it out.
After walking 10 blocks, asking 5 different individuals, and spending 30 minutes trying to find a cafe called La Luna del Miel, we ate some amazing savory and sweet crepes upon a fellow hiker's recommendation. Who do you know is that dedicated to finding crepes....that's right, these kids! With food in our bellies, we headed with Hotlanta (aka Kira) and Karen (Toronto) to Oscelot, a really quaint, dark, and charismatic jazz bar to hear some live music. I really enjoy the K2 team....their personalities are very open and make you feel like you've known them for years. Plus, it doesn't hurt that they have great stories and make you laugh. The musician, a curly-haired gentlemen in his late mid-to-late 30s was tearing it up...there was not one still person in the place. You could literally watch a few people try to fight it but then cave, especially when he would play a few notes slightly behind the beat. Great head bobbage. He was later joined by a trumpeter with a mute who made the moment quite euphoric. Great music, great company, great conversation, and not getting sick from our drinks that had ice in them = bliss.
On Saturday, we tagged along with K2 on a trip out to San Miguel to watch the non-profit "As Green As It Gets" at work in their coffee fields. After yet another steep hike and meeting Franklin (go-to coordinator for most AGAIG projects in the Antigua area of Guatemala) and Freddie (the local coffee farmer whose life has improved since becoming an partner/member of AGAIG), we got an education about the various steps and processes that go into the cup of what you may be drinking at this very moment. It is so complicated and gave me such a greater appreciation for the hard work behind things you take for granted. Rudy, Freddie's 12-year-old son, then guided us through the city taking us to different AGAIG vendors. Sylvia is a woman who has crafted a very universal base for creams (hand, face, foot) using various oils of local crops - this lecture was all in Spanish and we understood!! Very proud. We then met Maria, the 16-year-old phenom who made a lip balm from local oils and products, who is quite the success story - sold locally in San Miguel, then with AGAIG, and appealed to a Best Buy owner, who now orders her product by the thousands. She has been doing this since she was 13!! Makes me feel somewhat lazy but extremely proud of her and the success she has created for herself. We learned SO much that morning about local farming and the new products emerging from the community of San Miguel...very thankful K2 let us tag along!
We spent the remainder of the day eating, chilling, repacking, and getting ready for the long bus ride to Flores (12 hours in total). The music in the van to Guatemala City was initially hysterical and slowly became more like Chinese water torture the longer we sat in traffic - three versions of "Sound of Silence" (hotel lobby, chimes, and mariachi remixes), piano versions of "When a Man Loves a Woman" and "My Heart Will Go On," amongst others. This all became the soundtrack for the couple in the back of the van that, when heard over the ridiculous musical stylings of our driver, were having the most dramatic conversation on the planet. Initially, while the girl was tearing up, it sounded as though she was seeing him off to war....only to later find out they were discussing who should have the window seat. After a somewhat terrifyingly fast ride (for a charter bus), we arrived safely in Flores. The best part about the ride was to see how happy Hannah got when they handed us our cheese sandwiches and juice box...love it. Flores is like a smaller, 3x4 block version of Antigua that is surrounded by water. Kinda perfect. Tomorrow we begin our classes! Miss and love you all very much. Hope all is well on the home front!
On Wednesday, another traveler named Allison from Vancouver invited us to check out La Mercado de Artisanes on the main road in town. We had some good conversation comparing different ways of life in Australia, Canada, and the States. We then sauntered through the market, looking at the various colorful garmets and accessories. Guatemalans are very proud people, I have noticed. In most of the markets, vendors have 4-6 feet of space in front of their stand, but boy do they care about them! Almost all of the vendors at some point were sweeping their 23 cobblestones and then mopping them for the best possible presentation possible. I can tell you for a fact their key demographic (tourists with a fascination for momentos and more money than they know what to do with) will rarely if at all take note of the cleanliness of the stones in front of a tienda full of colorful goods...but they care and I love that!
Hannah and I are realizing our diet is pretty much as healthy as you can get! The hostel- provided breakfast (usually one egg, a piece of bread, and either beans or pineapple) starts the day out well...meal 2, if we remember it, is usually a chocolate-dipped, single scoop cappuccino waffle cone from Sarita (because it's scrumptious and only $1) ...meal 3 we usually remember right before going to bed, so that is something on hand (lately 4 Ritz crackers). Based on the "you are what you eat" mantra, we are soooo happy!
On Thursday, Allison, Hannah, and I headed on a hike up to Santiago del Cruz. Our mamita gave us perfect directions that we of course were confused by...fast forward 30 minutes and 5 other direction-giving individuals later and we reached the bottom of a insanely steep cobblestone street leading up to more rural-like housing. By steep I mean easily 40-45 degrees. We continued on that for a good 20 minutes, passing a basketball court that gets my vote for "Most Colors Used in a Sporting Field/Venue." At the top, there was a small statue and open field...but no cross. Many jumping pictures were taken regardless because, well, why not? A group of military cadets had just finished running up the near-vertical road and managed to muster up enough energy to applaud us in our self-timed jumping endeavors. With the help of local law enforcement (conveniently located almost anywhere a silly foreigner could wander), we were pointed in the right direction...just down from where we were. La Cruz is simply the best physical representation/symbol of the general spiritual and religious beliefs the people of Guatemala possess. I have yet to walk into any establishment that does not have at least one sign saying "Dios bendiga esta casa/negocio y quien la habita." After helping another couple take jumping photos, we headed back down.
In going with the "Why Not" theme of activities, Hannah and I decided to take a beginners salsa class. We learned the bare basics before a fellow gringa walked in, asked how it was going to the instruction, and before we knew it was performing the male steps to the dance opposite one of us. Just saying, pretty awkward. Jersey (I'm sure that wasn't her name) and our instructor then gave us a one song-long example of what salsa looks like when done with more than 5 basic steps. They killed it! We didn't know what happened, but it was quality, near-competition grade entertainment for sure. We were almost there ;)
To negate any calories we may have burned from basic-stepping our salsa behinds off, Allison joined us for another choco cone from Sarita's...it only seemed appropriate since she was part of our huge face-stuffing fest at Ronny's Tacos earlier that day. We went grocery stopping in hopes to not spend so much money at restaurants. Turns out, in Guatemala, you can get a liter of rum that comes with a bag of chips and 1.5L of Pepsi for a few Quetzals cheaper than a box of cereal....just sayin'. The pairings of free stuff had to be my favorite - I mean, who wouldn't want a bag of pasta sauce when they buy their orange juice?
On Friday, Hannah and I embarked on our Volcan Pacaya hiking adventure with 12 other people from various hostels in Antigua. 2 Londoners got in the van after being picked up from a different UmmaGumma and immediately continued talking about these "weird bites" they had - we felt it our duty to drop the knowledge with great pride, confidence, and embarrassment. Once at the base of the Volcan, our van was surrounded by 5 horsemen...had we not been in a van, I would have sworn we were extras on the Pony Express. It turns out they were there to prey on the weak, the lazy, and the out of shape. As you slowly ascend the trail at a 35-45-degree angle, these caballeros say things like "this is Candy - she is very sweet, come ride her and actually enjoy this for only Q100." They followed us halfway, just beyond a very steep shortcut- I assume they figure if you didn't have a coronary on that bit, you'll make it. Momentarily, I thought I may be wheezing and have been an undiagnosed asthmatic this whole time... but I then realized that was the sound of one who is out of shape and plans her day around choco cones. Once at the top, I felt like we were in Mordor...there was molten rock everywhere around us and steam emerging from the cracks and crevasses on the volcanic floor. Two other Londoners came prepared with marshmallows - let me tell you, if you want to really throw an amazing Smores party, just pop on over and set up on the nearest active volcano near you. THE most perfectly roasted marshmallow I've ever had. Lava...who knew? The perfect roaster and personal sauna. Also, note to all other marshmallow manufacturers... if you make them one color on the inside and a different on the outside, people will choose yours! We weren't able to go all the way to the top and into the crater since it last erupted one year prior....they gave some lame excuse like "blah blah blah your safety....blah blah you could die." Once all of the ominous fog/steam cleared some, our location rendered some amazing views of the other two major volcanoes in the area - Fuego y Acetenango. We actually saw Fuego erupt three times while we were in sight of it - little Mario Brothers-esque mushroom-shaped clouds of smoke would form at its peak. Once we all thought all the climbing had taken place, our guide took us up a 45-50 degree (sometimes I embellish, I admit that, but I got a confirmation from Hannah on this one) path that led to even greater views and brought us to an almost even level with the crater. Great weather, sights, jumping pictures, and downhill hiking towards the end of the morning rounded out the experience perfectly. **Side note: "Un Techo Para Mi Pais" (A Roof for My Country) is a really great company that sells beautifully hand-crafted jewelry and other products that use actual molten lava from Pacay in their designs - check it out.
After walking 10 blocks, asking 5 different individuals, and spending 30 minutes trying to find a cafe called La Luna del Miel, we ate some amazing savory and sweet crepes upon a fellow hiker's recommendation. Who do you know is that dedicated to finding crepes....that's right, these kids! With food in our bellies, we headed with Hotlanta (aka Kira) and Karen (Toronto) to Oscelot, a really quaint, dark, and charismatic jazz bar to hear some live music. I really enjoy the K2 team....their personalities are very open and make you feel like you've known them for years. Plus, it doesn't hurt that they have great stories and make you laugh. The musician, a curly-haired gentlemen in his late mid-to-late 30s was tearing it up...there was not one still person in the place. You could literally watch a few people try to fight it but then cave, especially when he would play a few notes slightly behind the beat. Great head bobbage. He was later joined by a trumpeter with a mute who made the moment quite euphoric. Great music, great company, great conversation, and not getting sick from our drinks that had ice in them = bliss.
On Saturday, we tagged along with K2 on a trip out to San Miguel to watch the non-profit "As Green As It Gets" at work in their coffee fields. After yet another steep hike and meeting Franklin (go-to coordinator for most AGAIG projects in the Antigua area of Guatemala) and Freddie (the local coffee farmer whose life has improved since becoming an partner/member of AGAIG), we got an education about the various steps and processes that go into the cup of what you may be drinking at this very moment. It is so complicated and gave me such a greater appreciation for the hard work behind things you take for granted. Rudy, Freddie's 12-year-old son, then guided us through the city taking us to different AGAIG vendors. Sylvia is a woman who has crafted a very universal base for creams (hand, face, foot) using various oils of local crops - this lecture was all in Spanish and we understood!! Very proud. We then met Maria, the 16-year-old phenom who made a lip balm from local oils and products, who is quite the success story - sold locally in San Miguel, then with AGAIG, and appealed to a Best Buy owner, who now orders her product by the thousands. She has been doing this since she was 13!! Makes me feel somewhat lazy but extremely proud of her and the success she has created for herself. We learned SO much that morning about local farming and the new products emerging from the community of San Miguel...very thankful K2 let us tag along!
We spent the remainder of the day eating, chilling, repacking, and getting ready for the long bus ride to Flores (12 hours in total). The music in the van to Guatemala City was initially hysterical and slowly became more like Chinese water torture the longer we sat in traffic - three versions of "Sound of Silence" (hotel lobby, chimes, and mariachi remixes), piano versions of "When a Man Loves a Woman" and "My Heart Will Go On," amongst others. This all became the soundtrack for the couple in the back of the van that, when heard over the ridiculous musical stylings of our driver, were having the most dramatic conversation on the planet. Initially, while the girl was tearing up, it sounded as though she was seeing him off to war....only to later find out they were discussing who should have the window seat. After a somewhat terrifyingly fast ride (for a charter bus), we arrived safely in Flores. The best part about the ride was to see how happy Hannah got when they handed us our cheese sandwiches and juice box...love it. Flores is like a smaller, 3x4 block version of Antigua that is surrounded by water. Kinda perfect. Tomorrow we begin our classes! Miss and love you all very much. Hope all is well on the home front!
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Chinches en Antigua
July 5th - 6th
Greetings all! We have arrived to GUATEMALA! The first day was a little tumultuous, but we are here and loving it now!
The trip started with some chaotic running around and packing throughout the morning - you would think a nurse would learn a few time management skills, apparently I fell asleep in that course. I'm almost certain my backpacking bag was packed in less than 10 minutes... and I have learned that some crucial items (ie deodorant, sleep shorts, bras, etc) didn't make it in there - luckily, nothing that can't be purchased at some point. No worries, deodorant obtained immediately.
Lesson 1: Don't fly Spirit Air unless absolutely necessary. Who charges $40 for a carry-on?
Lesson 2: Do not pack a thick, heavy, wax-covered travel book in the bottom of your rucksack - security will then undo all of the careful packing of your sack that you'd done the night prior. Poor Hannah. Also, who knew literature was such a threat to our national security?
Lesson 3: Try not to go 50-plus hours without sleep prior to a long trip (I know, you were right Dad). No one likes a hallucinator on their flight. (EB - "I just want to wash my hands!)
Lesson 4: Never get seats in aisle 10 of any Spirit Air flight (just in case you don't heed my advice from the first lesson) - the seats don't recline, as they are positioned directly in front of the emergency exit row. Are those extra 2.7 centimeters really going to hinder people's chances of exiting should an emergency actually occur? Also, it's very difficult to sleep leaning forward.
Lesson 5: Again, should you disregard lesson 1 and 4, any movement of the armrests or chairs of other passengers (who were lucky enough to recline) sounded like a playground full of screaming 2-3 year-olds who were all featured on "Super Nanny." If that is your kinda thing, Spirit Air is happy to serve.
Lesson 6: Guatemala loves color and color loves it. Everything is so quaint and cute. The terrain itself is hilly with grass-covered volcanoes in the background. And on the ride over, we learned that the lane lines were mere suggestions.
Lesson 7: Trust your instincts. A woman passed us casually as we were roaming the streets pretty desperate to put our bags down and said "if you need a hostal, that one is only Q35/night." In the previous traveler part of my brain, red flags went up everywhere...but the frugal part of my brain overpowered all others - I'm sorry, but $5/night. Done. I even looked around the place and inspected the upper bunk for signs of bedbugs. All clear at that time.
Lesson 8: You know you are eating like a local when you eat at a café that has no menu. People just rolled up, stated some plate typical to the area, and waited. Love it.
Lesson 9: It is going to be a long night when your travel partner awakens at 12:30am and asks "Do you feel like you are being bitten by something?"
Lesson 10: Bedbug bites don't always happen in a linear grouping of 3-4...mmm mmm, nope. Just so you know.
Lesson 11: When suspecting bedbugs, please confirm with a headlamp and look at the bedding. If it appears that golden-brown, pinpoint "animales" are having a rave party and dancing it up where your head just was laying, then it is safe to assume they have won.
Lesson 12: Sometimes the paranoia that ensues after such trauma (no joke, I heard harsh, sharp orchestral notes in my head when I finally saw them doing the Dougie on my sleep sheet) can only help you. We walked to Hostal Holistico, which can from this point forward be referred to as bedbug free haven (BBFH), and nearly cried from the cleanliness that the other hostal lacked. In total, I would estimate we spent 3 solid hours inspecting for chiches that night/morning.
Lesson 13: Always have a little Zofran on hand. Apparently exhaustion, eating cucumbers on a salad, and PTSD of chiches is a recipe for nausea, vomiting, and other unpleasantries. We eventually got to bed, both of us having some type of nightmare that we had to go back to Umma Gumma. That's right, I said Umma Gumma. I know what you're thinking and I agree... who in their right mind would stay in a place with that name? Again, 55-plus hours of no sleep at this time = crazy bad judgement.
Now that the craziness has passed, we will now refer to "Hannah's and Audrey's First Day of Adventure" to be today, July 6th. We call redo.
The BBFH has been amazing, full of hammocks and hammock swings all surrounding an open courtyard and lots of places to recharge. Plus, free yummy breakfast. After great conversations with Allison (Vancouver), Jill (Australia), and Mary (Peace Corps volunteer that knows my co-worker's daughter who is also volunteering in Guatemala - small world), we are feeling pretty good about this whole travel business. A special thank you and shout out to the adorable Guatemalan man who got rid of the chiches from out sleep sacks and clothes without the use of hot water - apparently, drops of chloride/bleach should do the trick. I'm almost certain a small tear formed in my right eye without my knowledge when he told me no one used hot water for laundry. Thankfully, his 11-year smarts about the business paid off.... we spent another 35 minutes inspecting everything again and he passes. Job well done. Things are looking real nice!
Much love to all back home! You are missed!
Greetings all! We have arrived to GUATEMALA! The first day was a little tumultuous, but we are here and loving it now!
The trip started with some chaotic running around and packing throughout the morning - you would think a nurse would learn a few time management skills, apparently I fell asleep in that course. I'm almost certain my backpacking bag was packed in less than 10 minutes... and I have learned that some crucial items (ie deodorant, sleep shorts, bras, etc) didn't make it in there - luckily, nothing that can't be purchased at some point. No worries, deodorant obtained immediately.
Lesson 1: Don't fly Spirit Air unless absolutely necessary. Who charges $40 for a carry-on?
Lesson 2: Do not pack a thick, heavy, wax-covered travel book in the bottom of your rucksack - security will then undo all of the careful packing of your sack that you'd done the night prior. Poor Hannah. Also, who knew literature was such a threat to our national security?
Lesson 3: Try not to go 50-plus hours without sleep prior to a long trip (I know, you were right Dad). No one likes a hallucinator on their flight. (EB - "I just want to wash my hands!)
Lesson 4: Never get seats in aisle 10 of any Spirit Air flight (just in case you don't heed my advice from the first lesson) - the seats don't recline, as they are positioned directly in front of the emergency exit row. Are those extra 2.7 centimeters really going to hinder people's chances of exiting should an emergency actually occur? Also, it's very difficult to sleep leaning forward.
Lesson 5: Again, should you disregard lesson 1 and 4, any movement of the armrests or chairs of other passengers (who were lucky enough to recline) sounded like a playground full of screaming 2-3 year-olds who were all featured on "Super Nanny." If that is your kinda thing, Spirit Air is happy to serve.
Lesson 6: Guatemala loves color and color loves it. Everything is so quaint and cute. The terrain itself is hilly with grass-covered volcanoes in the background. And on the ride over, we learned that the lane lines were mere suggestions.
Lesson 7: Trust your instincts. A woman passed us casually as we were roaming the streets pretty desperate to put our bags down and said "if you need a hostal, that one is only Q35/night." In the previous traveler part of my brain, red flags went up everywhere...but the frugal part of my brain overpowered all others - I'm sorry, but $5/night. Done. I even looked around the place and inspected the upper bunk for signs of bedbugs. All clear at that time.
Lesson 8: You know you are eating like a local when you eat at a café that has no menu. People just rolled up, stated some plate typical to the area, and waited. Love it.
Lesson 9: It is going to be a long night when your travel partner awakens at 12:30am and asks "Do you feel like you are being bitten by something?"
Lesson 10: Bedbug bites don't always happen in a linear grouping of 3-4...mmm mmm, nope. Just so you know.
Lesson 11: When suspecting bedbugs, please confirm with a headlamp and look at the bedding. If it appears that golden-brown, pinpoint "animales" are having a rave party and dancing it up where your head just was laying, then it is safe to assume they have won.
Lesson 12: Sometimes the paranoia that ensues after such trauma (no joke, I heard harsh, sharp orchestral notes in my head when I finally saw them doing the Dougie on my sleep sheet) can only help you. We walked to Hostal Holistico, which can from this point forward be referred to as bedbug free haven (BBFH), and nearly cried from the cleanliness that the other hostal lacked. In total, I would estimate we spent 3 solid hours inspecting for chiches that night/morning.
Lesson 13: Always have a little Zofran on hand. Apparently exhaustion, eating cucumbers on a salad, and PTSD of chiches is a recipe for nausea, vomiting, and other unpleasantries. We eventually got to bed, both of us having some type of nightmare that we had to go back to Umma Gumma. That's right, I said Umma Gumma. I know what you're thinking and I agree... who in their right mind would stay in a place with that name? Again, 55-plus hours of no sleep at this time = crazy bad judgement.
Now that the craziness has passed, we will now refer to "Hannah's and Audrey's First Day of Adventure" to be today, July 6th. We call redo.
The BBFH has been amazing, full of hammocks and hammock swings all surrounding an open courtyard and lots of places to recharge. Plus, free yummy breakfast. After great conversations with Allison (Vancouver), Jill (Australia), and Mary (Peace Corps volunteer that knows my co-worker's daughter who is also volunteering in Guatemala - small world), we are feeling pretty good about this whole travel business. A special thank you and shout out to the adorable Guatemalan man who got rid of the chiches from out sleep sacks and clothes without the use of hot water - apparently, drops of chloride/bleach should do the trick. I'm almost certain a small tear formed in my right eye without my knowledge when he told me no one used hot water for laundry. Thankfully, his 11-year smarts about the business paid off.... we spent another 35 minutes inspecting everything again and he passes. Job well done. Things are looking real nice!
Much love to all back home! You are missed!
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