July 25th - 31st
Back to school at Guatemalensis in Xela on Monday where I met my teacher, Anna Lucia. Similar senses of humor are kinda crucial for these types of relationships - that, patience, and a decent understanding of charades and grand hand gestures, all of which she had. Once again, pretty intense conversation topics were discussed in the first few hours, mainly regarding reasons for Guatemala's current healthcare system and main areas of improvement (from the point of view of a single mother with a 22-month old son). How does that keep happening? What happened to that whole 'what's your favorite color' conversation? I might actually be able to contribute to that one! Afterwards, I met my Señora and she led me to her house so I could drop the bags off and grab some food before heading back for our first school outing. Nora, our school director, took Hannah, myself and the other student from Austin to San Cristobal, a neighboring pueblo that was hosting a carnival-type fair with man-propelled rides, food, games, local Mayan products and the works. At one point, we stopped to observe the "Baila de Conquistara" (about the Spanish invading Guatemala) - in theory, probably a very serious dance and tradition. In reality, however, it was a group of men dressed in very heavily decorated outfits doing roughly the same dance, but at very different times and speeds, allowing us to question whether drinking was involved prior to the big show. It began raining during the "show," so Hannah took shelter less than 5 yards away from us under a tarp. About four minute later, the "show" ended (thank goodness) and Hannah came to us with a puzzled look on her face while clutching her bag. "Someone cut a hole in my bag!" Sure enough, there was a significant linear cut through the side of her bag, which she realized when she looked down and saw her Spanish dictionary and workbook sticking out. Luckily, nothing was stolen...I guess the psuedo-thief realized, "sheeeeooooot, I already know Spanish!" Oh goodness. Consoled ourselves with rotillos (fried plantain with some black beans in the middle) and cotton candy...as one does. Once back in Xela, I walked back down my street only to realize I had NO IDEA where the house was exactly. Within about 29 seconds and after two failed attempts to open other doors, four neighbors were out with me asking very basic questions in attempt to help me...like, "what is the name of your school?" and "what is the name of your Señora?" Both very valid questions, yet no answers. So, they decided to go door-to-door. Luckily, door #1 was the correct one and the first words out of a neighbor's mouth was, "Do you know this lady? She didn't know your name at all." Hey thanks, because that entire situation wasn't embarrassing enough, but now it gets to be awkward for the next few days also...cheers.
Tuesday brought school with our Xelapan and tea during our break :) and a trip to Fuentes Georginas, a natural hot springs and sauna whose heat originates from the active volcano! After recalling the last time I sauna-ed it and the subsequent syncopal episode (and reading the fine print of my traveler's insurance), I decided to sit this one out. The time was spent learning chistes, or jokes, from Nora, who is always saying something to lighten the mood. Attended a "Massage for Travelers" class with Michelle, where we learned how to relieve neck tension. We (could have just been me) had a transient lapse in maturity and found the majority of the lesson somewhat hysterical...especially with references to PAC Man as a valid hand movement :) Afterwards, we met up with some of her friends had some hot chocolate in a rooftop terrace restaurant that overlooked Parque Central. It was lovely to experience the mood of the park without actually having to face the anxiety and potential danger of being in it after dark. Another girl and I shared a Q30 cab for safety purposes (still heeding caution Mom and Dad!), but running, the other option, is free. Just sayin'.
Is it possible that I am getting stupider as the week of school progresses? Maybe that's what Wednesdays are for...doubting your ability to speak any language! Seriously, at times Hannah and I feel that not only is our Spanish plateauing but our English is getting worse as well. Today, for instance, I forgot the word for "lobster" when I saw one. It usually takes the two of us to think through something to get it...so when we return, please be patient, as we will not be able to speak Spanish or English. But darn if we won't be AMAZING at charades! With those feelings, we skipped out on salsa lessons to study...and by study, I mean Hannah studied while I journaled. What makes anyone feel better? Chocobananas and good company. So, that is what we did with Michelle...stuff our faces with cheap chocobananas. Guatemala, we love you for many reasons, but these pieces of goodness are near the top of our list for sure.
On Thursday, my teacher did confirm that my Spanish was getting worse, to an extent. Haha. So we decided to break up the monotony with a little Spanish Scrabble...and a win for the gringa! After one of the bumpiest access roads in all of Xela (and that is saying quite a bit), we reached San Andres Xecul, a nearby pueblo known for it's insanely colorful churches. They didn't disappoint - it was an explosion of primary colors coming at you from every direction. Inside looked similar to most others - religious statues and relics, ornate altars, beggars hassling you because you're white, etc, etc. The town itself was absolutely gorgeous - the majority of the streets in the town were on 45-50 degree inclines, allowing for great views of Guatemala's western highlands. There was a smaller prayer church near the top of the town that we walked/hiked to that provided the best views..and the highest heart rate of the week! We were entertained on the walk down by a young boy holding a huge umbrella over himself and a very small girl dressed in her huipil and corte (traditional garb)...adorable! Later that night, we had all planned to meet and go to the advertised National Symphony Orchestra play at Teatro Municipal. So Nora, her son, and the three of us students walked all the way up there to be greeted by a group of about 15 other extranjeros who looked equally confused by the locked doors and absence of light in the theater windows. Apparently, the musicians were protesting against the difficulties they faced when crossing borders? Whaaaaaaat? Anyways, we then turned to movies as our new form of entertainment - watched a really good film about border crossing (theme of the night) called "Bajo La Misma Luna," and I probably understood about a quarter of what was said. Not bad!!
It is only customary that Bananagrams were played on the last day of school! Upon returning to the house for lunch, I was greeted by a Japanese woman who was a new student beginning the following week. She knew heap tons more Spanish than I do, but spoke it with a Japanese-like delivery? Nora called it Japonol! Lunch was kinda rough, as I was just repeatedly reminded by my Señora and her daughter of how much more Spanish the Japanese girl knew and how she spoke it markedly better than I did. Whomp whomp. To distract from my recently bruised ego, Rolando, Nora, and the three of us went bike riding through the farmlands that rest at the base of the volcano on the outskirts of Xela. Yep, we sure did. The tires were half flat before we left, but it became quite clear why once we turned onto the uneven cobblestone street outside of their house. The bike was also set on the easiest possible gear to accommodate the hilly terrain, so the entire ride I just kept hearing the music from the "Wizard of Oz" that plays as Auntie Em is riding her bike. Da nuh nuh nah nah naaaaah num, da nuh nuh nah nah naaaah num naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh! Definitely the best outing of the week thus far, as it provided the opportunity to truly see how life, mainly in the working realm, was for most Guatemalans in the Xela area. Plus the views we breathtaking! The soccer pitch in the middle of various crops made me smile the most! That night, we met up with Karen and shared stories about language school, home stays, and general life in Xela. She is hysterical and definitely was the perfect end to a great day!
Saturday brought the most exciting outing of the week...a hike up and around Volcan Santa Maria to get an amazingly clear view of the very active Volcan Santiaguito! As we slowly hiked up the steep terrain, we were passed by local farmers who made this hike every day to tend to their crops. Personally, I'd seriously think about a career change, but unfortunately, thar isn't an option here. Some passed us on horses, others wielding machetes and various farming tools passed us on foot. After climbing for a few hours, we rounded a corner on a slight ascent and were met simultaneously with a magnificently clear view of sharp, jagged mountain summits preceding Volcan Santiaguito's massive open crater and a loud, deep boom as it erupted right in front of us! The sound is similar to what I would imagine a gunshot underwater sounding like...that or when you percuss over someone's lung as they are mid-inspiration, only 321 times louder. We took in the beautiful scenery for about 30 minutes before heading back. About 100 meters into the walk back, we heard and extremely loud boom and turned to see a massive eruption and cloud formation that shot straight up into the air, looking very similar ton the famous atomic bomb photograph. Rolando told us smaller eruptions produce gaseous clouds that extend laterally, almost like a skirt being laid on the sides of the volcano; larger ones shoot straight into the sky, much like the one we RAN back to see. Ps, running is difficult anyways, but at 2700 meters, I really kinda suck at it. I felt like a wooly mammoth...moving with the same speed and "grace." It was pretty remarkable watching something that is so beautiful and destructive. On the hike back down, we stopped to plant 20 baby trees that Nora and Rolando had been harvesting since last years - their attempt to combat the deforestation that has been especially bad in the surrounding Xela area due to the increased need and use of firewood by indigenous families. Apparently, some farmer created a faster way to plant trees that involves making "seed balls" consisting of seeds, dirt, and clay, giving them time to harden, throwing them into the forest, and allowing natural rainfall to break them open and let them set into the ground. How fantastic is that?? You throw trees into the forest - whhaaaaaaa? The decent was quite peaceful, passing herders with flocks of sheep and families of machete-wielding children, as is the life in these mountains.
At night, Hannah and I played Bananagrams with Michelle...I love that this game has already been worth the extra weight and I've only been gone 30 days - pretty sure if I ever have to choose between Bananagrams or medical supplies, the banana is staying. Apparently Hannah and I aren't the only ones who have difficulty finding certain English words... "Is goud a word?" Our ultimate "rule" was 'if you can use it in a sentence, you can keep it!' After a little salsa intermission, we watched "Sin Nombre," an intense movie about a member of the MS-13 gang who ultimately helps a Honduran teenager cross the border into the US. Great movie to make you even more paranoid for the walk home...plus the fireworks that were randomly going off in the park didn't help much either.
Sunday was our "recoup from the week and prep for tomorrow's travels" day. Lazy morning, Xelapan of course, and visit to Parque Calavario, where a caravan of taxis decorated with balloons and streamers was following a fire engine adorned with a huge statue of Jesus on top. The security detail for Jesus, aka the guys with poles that would lift the telephone lines so the statue would go untouched, also pulled double duty and set of firecrackers right next to us. On our walk to Parque Central, there were two different marching bands that walked by on the street. One of bands was wearing a tight, white unitard with diagonal silver sequins on the top...now c'mon, who would do that to these poor kids? Unitard....white....really? Though tempted to follow them, we determined anything worth watching would go through the park. Sure enough there was a competition/parade of various marching bands, drill teams, and dance teams from all over Guatemala. Michelle, Hannah, and I sat and enjoyed the loud, colorful, and energetic display for about 2 hours before rounding out the evening with our favorite street food! We thought about buying dessert-type foods from a vendor but then decided against it when we saw her killing bees INTO the caramelized candies! No gracias! Gave Michelle the Guatemalan handshake goodbye and we each wished each other safe travels and we parted ways. Stay safe in Mexico!
On Monday, we head to the Lake! Hoping that everyone at home is doing well. You are missed very much and thought of frequently, that is for sure!
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2 comments:
Audrey, I must say I LOVED your post. I felt like I was walking (running, sitting, watching) with you all!!!! Thanks for journaling and blogging. :)
Oh....and THANKS for being the TEAM "Audrey/Hannah". :)
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