So, there are two primary modes of transport to arrival at Aguas Calientes, the small touristy town at the base of Machu Picchu: hike up one of the three main, multi-day trail routes OR take the train from Cusco. Now, Peru is one of those awesome countries that has different prices for, well, almost everything - a train ticket for Peruvians is around $5 while a ticket for foreigners/travelers is about $100-200. While the gap in prices seems absolutely ludicrous, unfortunately, it is what it is. Since hiking and training it were out of the question for Bea and I, we elected to get there by "poor man's" means.
First step, cabbing it to the Santiago bus terminal, where we were bombarded, flagged down, and pulled in many directions by various companies' reps to their respective ticketing booths. For perspective, there were actually cops present to keep some "control" over the chaos and who blew whistles approximately every minute to remind the flagger-downers to take a breath. Then, appreciate the intelligence and preparedness of the local women who wind their way through aisles of cold, tired passengers selling bread and blankets. Bank.
Secondly, board the bus headed to Quillabamba and realize about 3 minutes into the journey that anti-nausea medicine is absolutely necessary. Fast-forward six very cold hours later and disembark at a pretty deserted "town" called Santa Maria at 01:50am. Now, wait until a cumbi (small passenger van) fills up in order to head to the neighboring town of Santa Theresa, about one hour by car. Slightly delayed due to sleep deprivation and early-stage frostbite, Bea and I were unaware that the scattered minivans throughout the darkness (that was in fact the town's main intersection) contained drivers in full recline position, thus appearing empty. Seeing this, our options were to join our fellow homeless individuals sleeping against nearby storefronts or hide out in the one-room police station. Clearly, we chose the latter and I spent the wee morning hours doing jumping jacks and eating Doritos in the back room of my second police station of the journey. The room we were in contained the a glass cabinet holding relatively empty but semi-organized binders of various reports and manuals...and the officer's ride. Classic. Eventually, after about 2 hours, we saw back lights of a van turn on - we sprinted out there only to discover that the van had miraculously been filled with individuals that can teleport? We saw NO ONE walking around during those hours except some local construction workers! Sneaky. There some people milling about near the entrance of a little convenience store - we meandered over and discovered another individual was waiting for the same thing. Unfortunately, that gentleman who was already quite intoxicated delayed the process further by purchasing a few cervezas from the store owner. Assuming the driver did not want that particular clientele, we waited another hour or so in the back seat of the cab until another person arrived who was heading to Santa Theresa.
Thirdly, take a cumbi or taxi ride along a very windy, death-defying, cliff-hugging, one-lane road to Santa Theresa. Once there, walk around like a semi-deranged person while having no idea what to do next. Get a second wind and remember where you need to go. Wait in the back seat of a cab for an hour-plus for two more people in order to depart. Finally, get a third person who initially says he will pay double his fare to compensate for the lack of a fourth passenger because he is late for work. Wait for the driver to pull over and fill all the tires with air. Ask "are you freaking kidding me?" (in Spanish) when the late worker suggests Bea and I pay two fares worth (each) so he doesn't have to pay anything.
Next, a somewhat tame 30-minute (15 if you had our driver) ride to the hydroelectric plant, where one can meet up with the train tracks.
Finally, walk along the train tracks for about 8 kilometers until you reach Aguas Calientes. This particular section of the journey is incredibly peaceful while still remaining adventurous, as you must often (and quickly) run to clear off the tracks from a rapidly-approaching train. When it rains, the experience loses some of its grandeur...unless you Bea cheers you up by creating a makeshift umbrella from huge banana leaves that have fallen alongside the tracks. Classic. The walk was made that much better by the presence of Bailey/Garbo/Pinta, a dalmation-like dog that led the way for most of the trip. His loyalty lay with us until the last kilometer, when another trekker carrying jerky passed us going the other direction. It was a sad and bittersweet moment of a crazy loss-rejection combo, but a street dog needs to do what it must to survive. Plus, jerky trumps PB+J crusts every time. The views are spectacular and, aside from the man-made wooden train tracks, the trek allows you a small glimpse into what post-Incan explorers may have felt while making their way to what would become the "holy grail" of ruins discoveries! Magical...truly.
Minimal space to pass. A "Stand by Me" moment was unintentionally reenacted.
In the spirit of saving money, upon arriving to Aguas Calientes, we continued to pound the pavement and find the most economical accommodations the town had to offer. Luckily, that turned out to be a hotel-like room that was chinche-free and had soap, toilet paper, AND towels. BAM! Minutes after dropping our bags, we headed straight for the local market and found great almuerzo deals. Skyping and perusing the overly-expensive tourist markets led us to a dinner table situated directly in front of a television playing a futbol game. If one cannot afford to eat in a restaurant with a television, you simply need to huddle in a crowd outside a window where the TV is visible (see below).
View entering Aguas Calientes, looking back towards the railway trail.
See that glow we have about us? That's what we like to call "sleep deprivation."
The following morning started quite early, as hiking up to the main entrance takes about 2 hours. The others I encountered along the trail all had similar looks on their faces - the "why is this so steep and will it ever end?" faces. Once I reached the top/entrance to Machu Picchu, I was already soaked and spent! Luckily, you can almost guarantee that there will always be people ready to capitalize on the misfortunes of others; thus, I bit the "unnecessary spending" bullet and purchased a bright green poncho, mainly to protect the camera. The weather was almost identical to that which Ashley and I experienced 4 years prior - rainy initially with a thick fog that starts clearing around the time you reach the top of Huayna Picchu (thank goodness). Walking through the maze of ancient stone is simply indescribable. Sorry. In the face of incredible beauty and mystery, life seems pretty simple. Zen is many things, but for me that morning, zen = sitting on an ancient ruin wall, watching fog dance around the grey stones of the former Incan city to the soundtrack of Trevor Hall and the Civil Wars, and sharing the moment with my sister via her novel I brought with me. Hours of meandering and contemplating how in the world the Incans managed to build such a beautifully strong city followed.
Eventually, while waiting in line to start hiking Huayna Picchu, I saw Hannah and her gang round the corner. They were definitely fatigued, but still happy, smiling, and up for their last hiking challenge. Though the series of steep switchbacks that continue for about 50 minutes without letup leaves one questioning their sanity, the views at the first clearing are (literally) breath-taking. The views allow you to see how precariously the city structures rest on the "Old Peak," as steep drop-offs to the river below flank Machu Picchu. Also, the switchback roads leading to the entrance from Aguas are also visible, which gave me a sense of accomplishment having ascended them earlier that morning. Though looking out onto Machu Picchu elicits many feelings, appreciation and happiness took the forefront. I was very proud of Hannah and her friends for completing the difficult journey. Personally, I was also very honored and happy to be present as Hannah experienced it - you could almost see the calm that overtook her as the "it is all worth it" moment came. It is just one of those moments when you realize how small and how human we are, yet how much a group of us can accomplish. Thank you Machu Picchu - you have once again simplified the chaos of life and highlighted that which is most important.
Obviously, our mandatory jumping photo!
Pretty much amazing.
After saying goodbye to Bea (gosh I am going to miss that girl), the journey of reflection continued on my two-hour walk along the tracks back to the hydroelectric plant. Luckily, after a three-hour wait, I was able to hitch a ride with a group of students back to Cusco. The following day was very relaxed and involved little more than journaling and Skyping, as the driver's fast and erratic behavior led to a night of upchuck reflexes (I mean, the man had a knob on the steering wheel so he could turn the vehicle at higher speeds). In the evening, the crew came over to Samay Wasi and we caught up on the last few days. The next day, we all had one last lunch in the plaza, overlooking a parade-like celebration for the patron saint of Cusco. After seeing Shaden off, we went exploring the "real" market Bea had shown me and found quail eggs! Yesssss! John became quite the fan. Janelle, Leah, Hannah, and I did some price-haggling for some beautiful scarves - Leah emerged "Bargain Queen" title, as she somehow got a very stern woman to come down to her proposed price. Hannah and I were both impressed and proud. Finally, it was time for my bus to Arequipa, so like any normal person would be, I was sent off hugs, safe travel wishes, and a choreographed "river" song and dance by John and Scott :) Love it!
The great debate :)
Goodbye Machu Picchu - you continually amaze!
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